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Raja Ampat Christmas Liveaboard Trip Report December 2022

Christmas in Raja Ampat on a liveaboard is one of the more memorable ways to celebrate the holidays. Here’s a Raja liveaboard trip report from December 2022.

Pook and wobbegong shark under the coral
Pook and wobbegong shark under the coral © chris@divehappy.com

December 2022 was my first visit back to Raja Ampat for 3 years – the last time I dived Raja Ampat was December 2019. I subsequently went back in June 2023 for what turned out to be an epic Raja Ampat trip.

Sturgeonfish giving me the eye
Sturgeonfish giving me the eye © chris@divehappy.com

This eight day liveaboard trip on Damai 2 did a classic loop around signature Raja Ampat dive sites in Waigeo and Misool, the two most popular areas liveaboards visit in Raja Ampat.

Jacks near the surface
Jacks near the surface © chris@divehappy.com

Highlights included a bunch of classic Raja Ampat sites – Cape Kri, Melissa’s Garden, Sawandarek Jetty and Miskion in the Waigeo region.

Lovely soft coral at Boo Windows
Lovely soft coral at Boo Windows © chris@divehappy.com

Boo Window, Four Kings and Magic Mountain in the Misool, area along with wildcard site Three Islands, also in Misool.

The pointy end of Four Kings
The pointy end of Four Kings © chris@divehappy.com

Sawandarek Jetty was reliably epic – for photographers, it delivers a plethora of subjects from the giant turtles to the giant clams to the passing jacks to the sweetlips down at depth, all over a carpet of coral that runs down the slope.

Big turtle on the reef
Big turtle on the reef, Sawandarek Jetty © chris@divehappy.com

The turtles in particular are just a joy to see everytime – unbothered by divers keeping a respectful distance, they like to imperiously survey the reef and give you the Paddington hard stare if you get too close.

Wobbegong shark in a cave
Wobbegong shark in a cave © chris@divehappy.com

It’s a magical place, and one of my favourites alongside Melissa’s Garden, which is a hard coral paradise. I’ve never had a bad dive at either site.

Sardine cyclone
Sardine cyclone, Three Islands © chris@divehappy.com

Three Islands was an unexpected stop which paid off with some remarkable sardine action. Reminiscent of the famous sardine shoals in Moalboal in the Philippines, Three Islands had a mesmersing sardine family hundreds of thousands strong moving in perfect synchronicity, like an underwataer starling murmuration. Stunning to see, especially as we had no idea it was going to happen!

Sardine spaceship
Sardine spaceship, Three Islands © chris@divehappy.com

There was a full moon during the trip which delivered strong currents on many dives, along with occasional downpours weather wise. It was quite murky on several dives, but this is normal for Raja Ampat – don’t come expecting gin clear water picture postcard perfect conditions. It was a salient reminder that Raja Ampat does deliver challenging diving on occasion, and you have to be mentally prepared for it – the currents don’t stop just because it’s Christmas.

Big turtle hanging out under a coral mushroom
Big turtle hanging out under a coral mushroom, Sawandarek Jetty © chris@divehappy.com

Which brings me to the Christmas Day itself on the boat. Damai’s two chefs did a fantastic job of cooking a huge turkey for Christmas dinner that was more succulent and tasty than you’d get in most restaurants on land, let alone from the cramped confines of a ship’s galley. Definitely one of the more memorable Christmas meals I’ve had!

Snappers and sturgeonfish under a coral bommie
Snappers and sturgeonfish under a coral bommie © chris@divehappy.com

In terms of practicalities, as usual for most Raja Ampat liveaboards, the boat departs and returns to Sorong. There’s a direct Garuda Indonesia flight from Jakarta to Sorong most days. Follow the links below for more information to help you plan your trip if you’re thinking of visiting yourself.

Pook and giant clam, Sauwandarek Jetty
Pook and giant clam, Sawandarek Jetty © chris@divehappy.com

The crossing from Waigeo to Sorong took up most of a day and the first day only has a check out dive while the last day is heading to the airport so an 8 day trip is actually 5 and a half days diving.

Goby in the tube coral
Goby in the tube coral © chris@divehappy.com

Thanks as ever to Dive Damai for another great trip.

Turtle silhouette amongst the sardines
Turtle silhouette amongst the sardines, Three Islands © chris@divehappy.com

Raja Ampat Diving Guides and Info

For an overview of what to expect when diving Raja Ampat and useful tips on how to get there and what to bring with you, see our Diving Raja Ampat: A Quick Guide and listen to the Divehappy podcast episodes on Raja Ampat. Misool Eco Resort and Triton Bay. For practicalities on getting there, see How To Get To Raja Ampat, Sorong Airport Guide and the Liveaboard Packing List

Raja Ampat Liveaboard Trip Reports

Triton Bay Trip Reports (as part of Raja Ampat liveaboard trips)

Booking Raja Ampat Liveaboards

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:: Check the availability and pricing of liveaboards in Indonesia and book online.


:: Find the cheapest flights to Indonesia - one search will show you the prices and times from scores of airlines for your trip. A real timesaver. You'll typically need to fly into Jakarta and then get a connecting flight to Sorong (SOQ) for Raja Ampat, Labuan Bajo (LBJ) for Komodo, Biak for Cenderawasih Bay (BIK) - but check with your liveaboard operator on optimum flights


:: Make sure you don't forget to bring any of the essentials for your scuba diving trip with our comprehensive Liveaboard Packing List


:: World Nomads offers simple and flexible travel insurance. Buy at home or while traveling and claim online from anywhere in the world.


:: Find available places to stay in Indonesia on Booking.com - usually you can reserve a room with no upfront payment. Pay when you check out. Free cancellations too. The Jakarta Airport Hotel, located in Terminal 2, is convenient for a transit stayover.


:: Need inspiration? See our Best Places To Dive In Indonesia for ideas of where to go and what to do.


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