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Komodo Liveaboard Trip Report August 2022

With Indonesia reopened to foreign tourists, Komodo liveaboards are back on the water and exploring the scores of dive sites located in the waters of the Komodo National Park.

Staghorn and anthias, Big Nose, Komodo
Staghorn and anthias, Big Nose, Komodo © chris@divehappy.com

Finally able to return to Indonesia once the country’s borders reopened, I joined a Komodo liveaboard in August 2022, the first time I’ve been back to Komodo since 2013. I was also back on a familiar boat, the Damai 2 liveaboard, and the route was the classic North to South itinerary, departing from Bima and ending in Labuan Bajo.

Table coral in shallows, 10 Foot Reef, Komodo
Table coral in shallows, 10 Foot Reef, Komodo © chris@divehappy.com

The Komodo National Park is big. It doesn’t just cover the islands themselves but the water that surrounds them. Doing a seven day liveaboard that passes through the Park lets you appreciate the sheer scale and diversity of Komodo. Each day is a different environment, both above and below the water.

Reef fish over table coral, Crystal Rock, Komodo
Reef fish over table coral, Crystal Rock, Komodo © chris@divehappy.com

It was great to see a lot of the same Damai crew as I’d met on trips before the pandemic, and in general, it was simply a relief that Everything Was Still There – the crew, the boat, the islands, and of course the reefs and the marine life.

School of surgeonfish, 3 Sisters, Komodo
School of surgeonfish, 3 Sisters, Komodo © chris@divehappy.com

That said, the sheer abundance of fish in the water seemed to have dropped off a lot from what I remembered from previous trips (over a decade ago so hazy already). I may have simply been unlucky with my timing – it certainly wouldn’t put me off going back to Komodo again, (it’s not like it was devoid of life), but how quiet the waters were was quite a surprise.

Turtle under reef bommie, Secret Garden, Komodo
Turtle under reef bommie, Secret Garden, Komodo © chris@divehappy.com

Komodo Liveaboard Day 1

Sangeang

We started off at Sangeang, a still active volcano located north west of the Komodo National Park. Sangeang is famous for dive sites like Bubble Reef, where air bubbles from the volcano constantly stream up through the black sand, and Hot Rocks, where the water is literally heated up by the volcano’s power.

The shallows of Crystal Rock, Komodo
The shallows of Crystal Rock, Komodo © chris@divehappy.com

Komodo Liveaboard Days 2 and 3:

Big Nose / 10 Foot Reef / Golden Passage

Castle Rock / Shot Gun / Castle Rock

The following two days were spent in the heart of the Komodo National Park around Gili Lawa, just north of Komodo island itself. There was some fantastic coral and water conditions at 10 Foot Reef, the sea utterly calm and the reef shallows a sun drenched, white sand dazzle.

Reef, Crystal Rock, Komodo
Reef, Crystal Rock, Komodo © chris@divehappy.com

While we didn’t encounter other divers on most of the dive sites of this trip, the iconic Komodo dive sites of Castle Rock and Crystal Rock were already busy. Day boats come out to these sites so it’s hard to get them to yourself, but it was still much quieter than before the pandemic. Castle Rock was a bit of a disappointment to be honest – while there were a few sharks around, it was in general very quiet compared to my memories of the huge schools of fish present on previous occasions. As ever with diving, it’s the luck of the draw.

Shark resting on the seabed, Crystal Rock, Komodo
Shark resting on the seabed, Crystal Rock, Komodo © chris@divehappy.com

Crystal Rock however delivered, both with great viz, a white tip shark that didn’t immediately do a runner when I approached for a photo, and some lovely reef.

Lionfish on the reef, 3 Sisters, Komodo
Lionfish on the reef, 3 Sisters, Komodo © chris@divehappy.com

Komodo Liveaboard Day 4:

3 Sisters, Secret Garden, Cannibal Rock

After an excellent couple of morning dives at 3 Sisters and Secret Garden, we headed to Horseshoe Bay at the south end of Rinca island. This is one of the must-dos for any Komodo liveaboard, not only because it has several of Komodo’s most-renown dive sites – Cannibal Rock, Yellow Wall and Torpedo Alley – but also because it’s where you can see Komodo Dragons roaming the beach.

Cannibal Rock soft corals, Komodo
Cannibal Rock soft corals, Komodo © chris@divehappy.com

Like Castle Rock, Cannibal Rock was quiet – in fact, with the colder water and the grey gloom under the surface, it was eerily quiet. There was a giant frogfish and still the explosion of colour from the reef, but still, there was not much action.

Komodo
Komodo Dragons, Horseshoe Bay, Rinca © chris@divehappy.com

On the beach, however, there were not one but two Komodo dragons and they were not slow at coming to the water’s edge to check out our dinghy. We stayed at a safe distance to take some photos as the sun started to fade over the bay.

Jacks, Tatawa Kecil, Komodo
Jacks, Tatawa Kecil, Komodo © chris@divehappy.com

There had been various weather advisories happening over the last couple of days and we left Horseshoe Bay directly after the night dive at Torpedo Alley to head to Padar island.

Pook and turtle, Pengah, Komodo
Pook and turtle, Pengah, Komodo © chris@divehappy.com

Komodo Liveboard Day 5:

Manta Point, Tatawa Kecil, Pengah

After getting a glimpse of a manta at Manta Point, and playing with the school of jacks in the channel at Tatawa Kecil, Pengah was a pleasant afternoon dive over a huge bed of coral, complete with a couple of turtles unphased by divers.

Glassfish around the reef, Mawan, Komodo
Glassfish around the reef, Mawan, Komodo © chris@divehappy.com

Komodo Liveboard Day 6:

Mawan, Tatawa Besar

The final two dives of the trip were two of the best. The shallows of Tatawa Besar and Mewan were both spectacular, golden glassfish moving in synchronicity around the reef under an azure canopy above and a white sand carpet below. A huge contrast to the gloom of Cannibal Rock a couple of days previous.

Komodo Dive Site Locations

Divehappy Komodo Dive Sites map
(Note – this is just some of the Komodo highlights – there are a lot more sites in the area)

Komodo Dive Happy Podcasts

  • Emma Tolmie from Current Junkies on diving Komodo’s currents
  • Mike Veitch from Underwater Tribe on what makes Komodo amazing

Dive Happy Komodo Trip Reports

  • Komodo Liveaboard Trip Report – from 2009, on MSY Damai
  • EZ Dive Magazine article on a Komodo liveaboard – from 2008, on the Indonesia Siren
  • Scuba Diver AustralAsia article on Komodo liveaboard diving – from 2007, on the Indo Aggressor (back then the Komodo Dancer)

Indonesia’s Main Dive Site Locations

Divehappy Indonesia Diving map



Diving And Travel Insurance

Considering travel insurance for your trip? World Nomads offers coverage for more than 150 adventure activities including scuba diving, as well as emergency medical, lost luggage, trip cancellation and more.

Start Planning Your Indonesia Dive Trip Now!

:: Check the availability and pricing of liveaboards in Indonesia and book online.


:: Find the cheapest flights to Indonesia - one search will show you the prices and times from scores of airlines for your trip. A real timesaver. You'll typically need to fly into Jakarta and then get a connecting flight to Sorong (SOQ) for Raja Ampat, Labuan Bajo (LBJ) for Komodo, Biak for Cenderawasih Bay (BIK) - but check with your liveaboard operator on optimum flights


:: Make sure you don't forget to bring any of the essentials for your scuba diving trip with our comprehensive Liveaboard Packing List


:: World Nomads offers simple and flexible travel insurance. Buy at home or while traveling and claim online from anywhere in the world.


:: Find available places to stay in Indonesia on Booking.com - usually you can reserve a room with no upfront payment. Pay when you check out. Free cancellations too. The Jakarta Airport Hotel, located in Terminal 2, is convenient for a transit stayover.


:: Need inspiration? See our Best Places To Dive In Indonesia for ideas of where to go and what to do.


Dive Happy Podcast Newsletter

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More Indonesia Diving Stories

  • Diving The USAT Liberty Shipwreck, Bali June 2022
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  • Komodo Liveaboard Trip Report August 2022
  • Diving Raja Ampat – A Quick Guide
  • Raja Ampat Liveaboard Trip Report 2020
  • Raja Ampat Liveaboard May 2018 Trip Report
  • Raja Ampat to Triton Bay Liveaboard Trip Report 2017
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  • Raja Ampat to Triton Bay 2008
  • Diving Triton Bay 2017
  • Triton Bay Whale Sharks
  • Indonesia’s Best Scuba Diving
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  • Bali Scuba Diving
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  • Lembeh
  • Bangka
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  • Palau Weh
  • Banda Sea
    • Gunung Api
    • Ambon
    • Nusa Laut
    • Banda Islands
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My Recent Dive Trips

  • February 2023: Similan Islands liveaboard, Thailand
  • December 2022: Raja Ampat liveaboard, Indonesia
  • December 2022: Similan Islands liveaboard, Thailand
  • August 2022: Komodo liveaboard, Indonesia
  • June 2022: USAT Liberty shipwreck, Bali, Indonesia
  • April 2022: Stonehenge, Koh Lipe, Thailand
  • March 2022: Manta Rays at Koh Bon, Thailand
  • January 2022: Richelieu Rock liveaboard, Thailand
  • March 2021: HTMS Chang and Alahambra Rock liveaboard, Thailand
  • February 2020: Similan Islands liveaboard, Thailand
  • December 2019: Raja Ampat liveaboard, Indonesia
  • October 2019: Malapascua, Philippines
  • June 2019: Sogod Bay, Philippines
  • April 2019: Tulamben, Bali
  • December 2018: Sogod Bay, Philippines
  • December 2018: Anilao, Philippines
  • October 2018: Moalboal, Philippines
  • October 2018: Malapascua, Philippines
  • July 2018: Tulamben, Bali
  • May 2018: Raja Ampat, Indonesia
  • April 2018: Sogod Bay, Philippines
  • May 2017: Apo Island and Dumaguete, Philippines
  • April 2017: Tubbataha Reef, Philippines
  • April 2017: Sogod Bay, Philippines
  • March 2017: Triton Bay, Indonesia
  • March 2017: Raja Ampat, Indonesia
  • September 2016: Tulamben, Bali at Alba Dive Resort
  • August 2016: Cenderawasih Bay on Damai 1
  • April 2016: Sogod Bay at Sogod Bay Scuba Resort
  • February 2016: Raja Ampat and Banda Islands on Damai 1
  • April 2015: Anilao at Crystal Dive Resort

My Less Recent Dive Trips

  • March 2015: Myanmar and Similan Islands on Thailand Aggressor
  • May 2013: Similan Islands on Thailand Aggressor
  • April 2013: Tubbataha Reef on Discovery Palawan
  • January 2013: Komodo, Indonesia on MSY Damai
  • August 2012: Cenderawasih Bay, Indonesia
  • April 2012: Similan Islands and Southern Thailand liveaboard
  • January 2012: Similan Islands liveaboard, Thailand
  • August 2011: Hanifaru, Maldives
  • June 2011: Tubbataha Liveaboard Hans Christian Andersen
  • April 2011: Similan Islands and Southern Thailand liveaboard
  • April 2011: Carpe Vita Liveaboard, Maldives
  • March 2011: Lembeh Strait, Indonesia
  • December 2010: Menjangan, Bali
  • July 2010: Tofo, Mozambique
  • July 2010: Sardine Run, South Africa
  • May 2010: Sangalaki / Derawan, Tambora
  • March 2010: MV Flying Seahorse, Similan Islands
  • March 2010: MV Orion, Southern Maldives
  • January 2010: Big Blue Explorer, Palau
  • November 2009: MSY Damai, Banda Sea Liveaboard, Indonesia
  • October 2009: MSY Damai, Komodo Liveaboard, Indonesia
  • October 2009: MV Orion, Maldives Liveaboard
  • September 2009: MV Scubanet, Koh Losin, Thailand
  • May 2009: MSY Seahorse, Banda Sea liveaboard, Indonesia
  • March 2009: Sachika Liveaboard, Maldives
  • February 2009: Daytrips, Koh Lanta, Thailand
  • January 2009: MV Jazz, Burma (Myanmar) Liveaboard

Back In The Day Bragging Rights Dive Trips

  • November 2008: Borneo Explorer, Visayas Liveaboard
  • September 2008: S/Y Siren, Komodo Liveaboard
  • August 2008: Ocean Rover, Sulawesi Liveaboard
  • August 2008: NAD Lembeh Resort, Indonesia
  • June 2008: Koh Tao
  • March 2008: Maldives, Bandos Island
  • February 2008: MSY Seahorse, Raja Ampat Liveaboard
  • January 2008: MV Jazz, Burma Liveaboard
  • October 2007: Bali Dive Safari
  • September 2007: Davao, Philippines
  • July 2007: Great White Sharks, Rodney Fox Liveaboard
  • June 2007: Big Blue, Palau Liveaboard
  • May 2007: Whale Sharks at Exmouth, Australia
  • April 2007: Borneo Explorer, Tubbataha Reef Liveaboard
  • December 2006: Komodo Dancer, Komodo Liveaboard

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