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Diving Sogod Bay 2017

Sogod Bay in Southern Leyte is still one of the Philippines’ best kept dive secrets. There’s a smorgasbord of pristine reefs, abundant fish life, lots of critters and the promise of whale sharks – and very few other people there.

Napantao reef and anthias, Sogod Bay, Philippines

It’s not often you go revisit somewhere nearly a decade later and find it almost totally untouched. But that’s what I found on a return trip to Sogod Bay in Southern Leyte in April 2016, which is still, I think, the most underrated diving destination in the Philippines. In fact, it was so good I recently went back for a third time in April 2017.

I first went to Sogod Bay ten years ago in 2007. Back then it had already received a fair bit of coverage in dive magazines as a new hot spot with pristine reefs, plentiful fish life and bonus whale sharks making an appearance for a few months a year. Amazingly, and hearteningly, very little has changed between April 2007 and April 2017. I was worried that the beautiful reefs and plentiful critters I remembered would be the stuff of fond memories rather than current reality – yet, after this second visit, it was frankly better than I remembered.

Seahorse, Sogod Bay, Philippines

Whereas many dive spots are either coral reef noodling or muck / critter diving, Sogod has a great mix of several kinds of sites with different topography, all within half hour’s boat ride of the resort. If you want gorgeously coloured, teeming with fish reef on sloping walls with literally thousands of anthias making it a wide angle heaven, then Napantao marine reserve is the place to go. If you want to play Hunt the mimic octopus in grey sand, head to the supposedly barren grey sands of Ghost Town. If you want a sandy reef dive with nudibranches, demon stingers and zebra crabs galore, explore the house reef just in front of the resort. And you have to do the "world famous in Southern Leyte" Padre Burgos pier night dive, where amongst the town’s detritus live seahorses, snake eels and stargazers.

Archway of coral, Sogod Bay, Philippines

Napantao and Limasawa

Sogod has at least 20 sites and several are very much worth repeat dives, meaning you could be happily occupied here for a couple of weeks. Napantao is the standout as the clouds of anthias around the corals are just endlessly beautiful, and the pristine reef continues further along at Olly’s Wall (actually more of a slope with wall-y interludes). We had the pleasure of meeting Olly in 2016 as he was over visiting Sogod from the UK when we were there – he was previously a dive guide at Sogod and is a very nice chap. Our dive guide Adam in 2017 was also great (although he made me feel old by being only 19) and has been taught well by the resort’s senior instructor and partner, the semi-legendary Pedro Batestil, who has been there since the resort’s inception.

Several kilometres away Limasawa island in the mouth of the gulf harbours another two sites that are also marine protected areas. Adrian’s Cove and Zach’s Cove are both remarkably pretty dives welll worth the 30 minute boat ride to get out there

Cloud of anthias, Napantao, Sogod Bay, Philippines

Sogod Bay House Reefs

One of the other joys of the resort is that there is the house reef and then several other excellent sites that are essentially just a bit further along making them super accessible – 5 minutes and you’re ready to descend on the site. There’s Max Climax, Baluarte and Bunga Bend all in close proximity to the house reef which shares its characteristics of a sandy slope interspersed with clumps of coral. Max Climax however has a gorgeous drop off at 15 metres where you suddenly feel like you’re in mid air.

Diver and elephant ear coral, Sogod Bay, Philippines

Santa Sofia lies south of the resort just by the town of Padre Burgos and it’s a lovely afternoon dive along a gentle slope as its home to several turtles, a couple of which are impressive sizes. We dived here a couple of times and the hazy afternoon light made me want to see it in early morning as the reef wakes up. Juvenile Barracuda are regularly spotted here, adding to the feel that the site is a sanctuary and something of an underwater nursery.

Turtle, Sogod Bay, Philippines

Sogod Bay Whale Sharks

Sogod Bay is part of the massive Leyte Gulf, with aqua waters of the shallow reefs by the shore quickly turning a dark inky blue as the reef drops off into abyssal depths.

This great depth so near the shoreline means that some of the biggest, deep sea creatures are occasionally seen – whales have been spotted coming up for air and dolphins skipping around prow of a boat are a common sight. Most common of all though is the otherwise rarely seen whale shark.


(Watch this amazing video footage of Sogod Whale sharks shot by ace dive guide Pedro Bastille back on my Sogod Bay trip back in 2007.)

The world’s biggest fish usually start showing up in Sogod Bay around November and stay until April. However, in 2016 they stopped showing around February and in 2017 in January, so their presence can’t be guaranteed. They only started appearing in the gulf in the early 2000s, probably attracted by the spawning of the healthy local coral reefs which had been rigourously protected by legislation from an enlightened regional governness which has largely stayed in place.

Diving with the whale sharks is not allowed, only snorkelling, and special spotter boats go out looking for them. It’s a sedate affair with only 1 or 2 boats in the water usually – unlike the whale shark circus at Oslob.

Frankly, the diving at Sogod is so good (sorry, had to do it) that the non-appearance of whale sharks is a mild annoyance rather than a major disappointment – those who don’t have too high expectations will be well rewarded.

Sogod Bay location map

How To Get To Sogod Bay

There’s several reasons why Sogod Bay has remained pretty much untouched over the last 10 years – and that’s because getting there is still fairly hard work. You can get a domestic flight from Manila to Cebu and then get a ferry from Cebu to Leyte, and then it’s a couple of hours drive to Sogod Bay. Or, more typically, get a domestic flight from Manila to Tacloban which is in the northern part of the island. The dive resort can send a driver to meet you, and then it’s a three and a half drive down to southern Leyte. Check on Skyscanner to compare prices and timings of flights to Manila, Cebu and Tacloban.

Banca dive boat, Sogod Bay, Philippines

Tacloban airport and its namesake city were badly damaged during the 2013 typhoon season but is now fully restored. As the only airport on the island, the typhoon has injected fresh drive into plans to open Maasin airport in the south so the island Leyte has two airports. Sogod Bay would be only a 45 minute drive from the airport, making it far more convenient to visit. It would probably open the floodgates for development and tourism too – and the impact of that development on Sogod’s reefs, the very thing that makes it special, could be terrible if not handled carefully. But, locals think Maasin airport will take years to materialise – it’s been under discussion for a couple of decades already.

Until then, Sogod Bay is very much worth the effort to visit. The reefs are fantastic and there’s almost no-one else about – despite there being several dive operations here that have been in business for over a decade, it still feels like discovering a magical place that’s all your own. Go now before everyone else does.

Panoramic view from the balcony, Sogod Bay, Philippines

Where To Stay At Sogod Bay

All three trips I’ve done to Sogod Bay I’ve stayed at Sogod Bay Scuba Resort – you can read previous guest reviews and book online at Agoda. There are several other resorts in the area – Peter’s Dive Resort, Padre Burgos Castle, Southern Leyte Divers and Leyte Dive resort.

Dumaguete and Sogod Bay Map

Sogod Bay Liveaboards

Liveaboards do not feature Sogod Bay regularly on their itineraries. It’s possible to do a liveaboard around the Visayas (central Philippines region) and then from Cebu make your own way to Sogod – it’s a great addition to a liveaboard trip if you have a couple of weeks in the Philippines.

Two liveaboards which run regular trips in the Visayas are Philippines Siren and Atlantis Azores – follow the links to check dates, availability and pricing.

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Dive Insurance For Sogod Bay

Considering travel insurance for your trip? World Nomads offers coverage for more than 150 adventure activities including scuba diving, as well as emergency medical, lost luggage, trip cancellation and more. The nearest hyperbaric chamber to Sogod Bay is in Cebu City, and the nearest decent hospital too.

More on Sogod Bay

  • Diving Sogod Bay podcast – talking to Phil McGuire of Sogod Bay Scuba Resort about what makes Sogod special.
  • Sogod Bay whale shark videos – from my 2007 Sogod trip
  • Sogod Bay Diving video – my good friend Kevin who was on the dive trip with me uploaded a great 20 minute video documenting our trip above and below water

Big love to #TeamMickey

Sunset over Sogod Bay, Sogod Bay, Philippines



Diving And Travel Insurance

Considering travel insurance for your trip? World Nomads offers coverage for more than 150 adventure activities including scuba diving, as well as emergency medical, lost luggage, trip cancellation and more.

Start Planning Your Philippines Dive Trip Now!

:: Check the availability and pricing of liveaboards in the Philippines and book online.


:: Find the cheapest flights to the Philippines with Skyscanner - one search will show you the prices and times from scores of airlines for your trip. A real timesaver.


If you need a good transit hotel near Manila airport, try the Marriott or Nichols Hotel. The actual Manila Airport Hotel is very run down and not recommended.


:: Make sure you don't forget to bring any of the essentials for your scuba diving trip with our comprehensive Liveaboard Packing List


:: World Nomads offers simple and flexible travel insurance. Buy at home or while traveling and claim online from anywhere in the world.


:: Find available places to stay in the Philippines on Booking.com - usually you can reserve a room with no upfront payment. Pay when you check out. Free cancellations too.


:: Need inspiration? See our Best Places To Dive In The Philippines for ideas of where to go and what to do.


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My Recent Dive Trips

  • August 2022: Komodo liveaboard, Indonesia
  • June 2022: USAT Liberty shipwreck, Bali, Indonesia
  • March 2022: Manta Rays at Koh Bon, Thailand
  • January 2022: Richelieu Rock liveaboard, Thailand
  • March 2021: HTMS Chang and Alahambra Rock liveaboard, Thailand
  • February 2020: Similan Islands liveaboard, Thailand
  • December 2019: Raja Ampat liveaboard, Indonesia
  • October 2019: Malapascua, Philippines
  • June 2019: Sogod Bay, Philippines
  • April 2019: Tulamben, Bali
  • December 2018: Sogod Bay, Philippines
  • December 2018: Anilao, Philippines
  • October 2018: Moalboal, Philippines
  • October 2018: Malapascua, Philippines
  • July 2018: Tulamben, Bali
  • May 2018: Raja Ampat, Indonesia
  • April 2018: Sogod Bay, Philippines
  • May 2017: Apo Island and Dumaguete, Philippines
  • April 2017: Tubbataha Reef, Philippines
  • April 2017: Sogod Bay, Philippines
  • March 2017: Triton Bay, Indonesia
  • March 2017: Raja Ampat, Indonesia
  • September 2016: Tulamben, Bali at Alba Dive Resort
  • August 2016: Cenderawasih Bay on Damai 1
  • April 2016: Sogod Bay at Sogod Bay Scuba Resort
  • February 2016: Raja Ampat and Banda Islands on Damai 1
  • April 2015: Anilao at Crystal Dive Resort
  • March 2015: Myanmar and Similan Islands on Thailand Aggressor
  • May 2013: Similan Islands on Thailand Aggressor
  • April 2013: Tubbataha Reef on Discovery Palawan
  • January 2013: Komodo, Indonesia on MSY Damai

My Less Recent Dive Trips

  • August 2012: Cenderawasih Bay, Indonesia
  • April 2012: Similan Islands and Southern Thailand liveaboard
  • January 2012: Similan Islands liveaboard, Thailand
  • August 2011: Hanifaru, Maldives
  • June 2011: Tubbataha Liveaboard Hans Christian Andersen
  • April 2011: Similan Islands and Southern Thailand liveaboard
  • April 2011: Carpe Vita Liveaboard, Maldives
  • March 2011: Lembeh Strait, Indonesia
  • December 2010: Menjangan, Bali
  • July 2010: Tofo, Mozambique
  • July 2010: Sardine Run, South Africa
  • May 2010: Sangalaki / Derawan, Tambora
  • March 2010: MV Flying Seahorse, Similan Islands
  • March 2010: MV Orion, Southern Maldives
  • January 2010: Big Blue Explorer, Palau
  • November 2009: MSY Damai, Banda Sea Liveaboard, Indonesia
  • October 2009: MSY Damai, Komodo Liveaboard, Indonesia
  • October 2009: MV Orion, Maldives Liveaboard
  • September 2009: MV Scubanet, Koh Losin, Thailand
  • May 2009: MSY Seahorse, Banda Sea liveaboard, Indonesia
  • March 2009: Sachika Liveaboard, Maldives
  • February 2009: Daytrips, Koh Lanta, Thailand
  • January 2009: MV Jazz, Burma (Myanmar) Liveaboard

Back In The Day Bragging Rights Dive Trips

  • November 2008: Borneo Explorer, Visayas Liveaboard
  • September 2008: S/Y Siren, Komodo Liveaboard
  • August 2008: Ocean Rover, Sulawesi Liveaboard
  • August 2008: NAD Lembeh Resort, Indonesia
  • June 2008: Koh Tao
  • March 2008: Maldives, Bandos Island
  • February 2008: MSY Seahorse, Raja Ampat Liveaboard
  • January 2008: MV Jazz, Burma Liveaboard
  • October 2007: Bali Dive Safari
  • September 2007: Davao, Philippines
  • July 2007: Great White Sharks, Rodney Fox Liveaboard
  • June 2007: Big Blue, Palau Liveaboard
  • May 2007: Whale Sharks at Exmouth, Australia
  • April 2007: Borneo Explorer, Tubbataha Reef Liveaboard
  • December 2006: Komodo Dancer, Komodo Liveaboard

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