Dive Happy

  • Philippines
  • Indonesia
  • Thailand
  • Maldives
  • Myanmar
  • Liveaboards
  • Diving Podcast

Scuba Diving Bangka, Indonesia

Bad weather stopped a planned exploration of Sulawesi’s Sangihe archipelago, but diving around the astounding sites of Bangka more than made up for it

[This article originally appeared in Issue 100 of Asian Diver magazine (November 2008) under the title Sulawesi Surprise. I’ve previously written a Sulawesi trip report on the Ocean Rover liveaboard from this same trip – what follows is a more in-depth description of the diving around Bangka in Indonesia]

It’s a disappointment every diver has to learn to live with – sometimes, the weather just won’t do what you want it to. We’d already spent a couple of idyllic days on the Ocean Rover liveaboard, exploring the Lembeh Straits and Bunaken national park while waiting for a break in strong easterly winds to let us head out into the open ocean and explore our main goal, Indonesia’s Sangihe archipelago. This chain of islands lies off Sulawesi’s northernmost tip, scattered over several hundred kilometres, and while August should have been ideal conditions for diving around them, the wind and waves refused to die down. We needed to come up with another plan.

Flabellina
Flabellina

While getting to the Sangihe islands of Biaro and Siau had been overruled by the boat captain, we could still explore the beginning of the archipelago around Bangka, the island nearest to the Sulawesi mainland and located directly between Bunaken and Lembeh. While these two areas are world famous for their stunning wall dives and profusion of weird critters respectively, Bangka is rarely cited as one of Sulawesi’s main dive attractions.

This was something I found hard to believe within a couple of minutes of dropping in at our first Bangka dive site, Sahaung — the visibility here was tremendous although a chilly 26 degrees, allowing us to see at least 30 metres and bringing a cinematic clarity to each of our dives. It was a complete contrast to the fascinating but murky Lembeh dives we’d done previously, like someone had switched on floodlights underwater.

The whole seascape was laid out before us, each detail of orange, yellow and green coral vividly apparent on the dramatic dropoff that swept around to a plateau studded with boulders that provided some shelter from the insistent currents that pulled us along the wall. A huge school of sweetlips provided mesmerising entertainment in the form of Olympic synchronized swimming routines, breaking into smaller groups and then flowing back together into one collective of hundreds of fish before spinning off again into ever more complex formations.

Red Ornate Ghost Pipefish
Red Ornate Ghost Pipefish

Batu Goso II is perhaps the most dramatic of Bangka’s sites, a craggy line of pinnacles that just break the surface and drop to 40 metres. They look like the scenery for an aquatic Lord Of The Rings. Hovering besides one of these and being able to see all the way to the bottom induces nothing less than the sensation of flying between mountains. Batu Pohon and Batu Tiga both have pinnacles that rise like huge granite fingers from the bottom at 30 metres, standing alone in the middle of a bright white sandy plain. Back off out into the blue a little way and you can see each pinnacle from its base to tip, before zeroing in on the profusion of soft corals that cling to each of them. Amongst the corals at Batu Pohon we made a startling discovery that made me wish for a magnifying glass – curled away in one crack of the rock was a leafy seahorse, as tiny as a pygmy seahorse but not quite so photogenic, with its mottled greens and greys making it almost impossible to spot.

Nudibranch
Nudibranch

Indeed, there’s a fascinating contrast between the panoramic scale of Bangka’s sites and the tiny creatures that are most often found amongst them. Nudibranches in particular are very prevalent, with at least a half dozen different ones spotted on each dive. While Bangka doesn’t quite match Lembeh for the most weird critters per square metre (then again, where does?), there is a profusion of otherwise hard to find marine life that makes almost every dive eyepopping. On most dive sites, it’s a source of celebration if you can find one tiny ghostpipefish skillfully camouflaging itself against a crinoid or coral. At Bangka’s Batu Kambing we found not one or two, but nine ghostpipefish, all within a couple of metres of one another. The guides didn’t know which coral to point to first, and those with cameras were similarly perplexed about how to capture all of these delicate creatures on disk before their air ran out. Besides the harlequin ghostpipefish and the robust pipefish, which looks uncannily like a discarded reed, there was also the rarely spotted velvet ghostpipefish, which has a nondescript grey colour but the bizarre texture of material.

Velvet Ghost Pipefish
Velvet Ghost Pipefish

Batu Kambing had one other surprise for us as well – once everyone was back on the boat and thinking about breakfast, the crew started shouting they’d seen something surface near the shore. It was a very rare and very shy dugong, who nevertheless stayed around long enough for a couple of hardy snorkelers to make their way out to see her for a few seconds before she disappeared.

The dugong was not the only surprise – as we steamed back towards Lembeh Strait with our liveaboard coming to an end, the idea of searching for thresher sharks was proposed over dinner. This I found harder to believe than the dugong, but threshers had apparently been seen a few times at Batu Kapal, located at the northern most tip of Lembeh island. With their superlong tailfin, they are unique looking creatures, but I thought the chances of seeing one was zero. Batu Kapal itself is a desolately beautiful site, a big, current blasted wall that shelves out at around 30 metres before dropping down even further, quite unlike what you would expect from Lembeh. As we patrolled along the shelf, my guide found a nurse shark sleeping underneath an overhang, wedged in diagonally amongst the rocks. It was an exciting find, but not quite what we’d been hoping for. As we floated above the plateau in the blue, I signaled to my guide that we should start heading to shallower depths. He gave me an OK and then I saw his eyes widen through his mask and he started frantically pointing behind me. Spinning around I saw a the unmistakable sight of a thresher shark speeding past us, a few flicks of its tail propelling it far quicker than we could hope to keep up, before it disappeared into the gloom.

A fitting finale to our improvised exploration of some of Sulawesi’s lesser known sites that, despite our initial disappointment at not seeing more of Sangihe, turned out to be quite spectacular in its own right. Bookended by dives in Bunaken and the Lembeh Strait, exploring Bangka should be part of any Sulawesi dive itinerary as it’s definitely full of surprises.

Ocean Rover – A New Beginning

The Ocean Rover liveaboard recently permanently relocated from Thailand to Indonesia. Under the new ownership of Roman Szalay, originally from Austria, the Ocean Rover will be dividing its time between Sulawesi and Raja Ampat.

Ocean Rover is one of the few boats to have the stringent International Maritime Organization (IMO) number, which makes it one of the safest liveaboards in all of Asia – the boat has not one but three engines it can use as backup, along with replacement navigation and communication systems.

You can read more about the Ocean Rover and see photos of the boat’s interior in my in-depth review of the liveaboard

Dive Trip Planner For Bangka:

Getting there
The nearest airport to northern Sulawesi in Indonesia is Manado – Silk Air fly there from Singapore, Garuda from Jakarta and AirAsia from Kuala Lumpur. Check and compare flights on and .

Accommodation
If you want to stay on land before or after the liveaboard, you’re probably best off staying at one of the many Lembeh dive resorts or Bunaken dive resorts. There is a wide variety of hotels in Manado too.

Entry requirement
7 day and 30 day visas are issued on arrival in Indonesia – they cost $10 and $25. You can pay with US cash or Indonesian Rupiah. Make sure you have a free page in your passport for the visa and that your passport is valid for at least 6 months after time of entry.

Best time to dive
October to December and February to April is best time for diving Sulawesi, so avoiding the wet season.

Electricity
220v. Bring a universal plug adaptor. Many liveaboards also have 110v.

Climate
December to February is the wet season in Sulawesi, but does not necessarily affect diving.

Language
Bahasa Indonesia is the country’s official language. English is spoken widely.

Currency
Indonesian Rupiah. $US1 = 10,000 Rupiah. Most liveaboards and hotels quote prices in US Dollars. Credit cards are accepted on most liveaboards and at hotels, but check in advance. Bear in mind things like port fees and staff tips need to be paid in cash.

Dive Operator
Ocean Rover provides luxury liveaboard cruises of north Sulawesi, covering the Sangihe archipelago, Bangka, Bunaken national park and the Lembeh Straits. www.ocean-rover.com



Diving And Travel Insurance

Considering travel insurance for your trip? World Nomads offers coverage for more than 150 adventure activities including scuba diving, as well as emergency medical, lost luggage, trip cancellation and more.

Start Planning Your Indonesia Dive Trip Now!

:: Check the availability and pricing of liveaboards in Indonesia and book online.


:: Find the cheapest flights to Indonesia - one search will show you the prices and times from scores of airlines for your trip. A real timesaver. You'll typically need to fly into Jakarta and then get a connecting flight to Sorong (SOQ) for Raja Ampat, Labuan Bajo (LBJ) for Komodo, Biak for Cenderawasih Bay (BIK) - but check with your liveaboard operator on optimum flights


:: Make sure you don't forget to bring any of the essentials for your scuba diving trip with our comprehensive Liveaboard Packing List


:: World Nomads offers simple and flexible travel insurance. Buy at home or while traveling and claim online from anywhere in the world.


:: Find available places to stay in Indonesia on Booking.com - usually you can reserve a room with no upfront payment. Pay when you check out. Free cancellations too. The Jakarta Airport Hotel, located in Terminal 2, is convenient for a transit stayover.


:: Need inspiration? See our Best Places To Dive In Indonesia for ideas of where to go and what to do.


Dive Happy Podcast Newsletter

In-depth conversations about the best diving hotspots in Asia. Join the free Dive Happy podcast newsletter to get the next podcast episode sent to you direct:

Listen to previous Dive Happy podcast episodes.

Last Minute Liveaboard Deals

  • Last Minute Liveaboard Deals March 2023
  • Raja Ampat Liveaboard Deals 2023

More Indonesia Diving Stories

  • Diving The USAT Liberty Shipwreck, Bali June 2022
  • Bali Muck Diving June 2022
  • Komodo Liveaboard Trip Report August 2022
  • Diving Raja Ampat – A Quick Guide
  • Raja Ampat Liveaboard Trip Report 2020
  • Raja Ampat Liveaboard May 2018 Trip Report
  • Raja Ampat to Triton Bay Liveaboard Trip Report 2017
  • Raja Ampat to the Banda Islands Liveaboard Trip Report
  • Raja Ampat to Triton Bay 2008
  • Diving Triton Bay 2017
  • Triton Bay Whale Sharks
  • Indonesia’s Best Scuba Diving
  • Cenderawasih Bay
  • Komodo
  • Bali Scuba Diving
    • Menjangan Island
  • Lembeh
  • Bangka
  • Kalimantan
  • Palau Weh
  • Banda Sea
    • Gunung Api
    • Ambon
    • Nusa Laut
    • Banda Islands
    • Banda Islands Land Tour
    • Manuk
  • Diving Raja Ampat Podcast
  • Diving Bali Podcast
  • Diving Cenderawasih Bay Podcast
  • Diving Triton Bay Podcast
  • Misool Eco Resort Podcast
  • Diving Indonesia

Dive Happy Podcast

  • Tonga Humpback Whales Podcast
  • Tubbataha Reef Diving Podcast
  • The Father Of Palau Diving: Francis Toribiong
  • Sogod Bay Diving Podcast
  • LAMAVE Volunteer Whale Shark Research
  • Dream Job: What’s It Like To Be A Marine Biologist?
  • Dumaguete Diving Podcast
  • Komodo Diving Podcast
  • Diving The Yonaguni Monument, Japan Podcast
  • Diving Koh Lanta Podcast
  • Moalboal Diving Podcast
  • Diving The Banda Sea Podcast: Part 2
  • Diving The Banda Sea Podcast: Part 1
  • Diving Hawaii Podcast
  • Diving Malapascua Podcast
  • Diving Taiwan Podcast
  • Diving Japan Podcast
  • Diving HTMS Chang And Alhambra Rock Podcast
  • Diving The WW2 Shipwrecks Of Coron Podcast
  • Diving Lembongan Podcast
  • Diving Romblon: the Philippines’ Secret Super Macro Paradise
  • Triton Bay Diving 2020 Podcast
  • Dream Job: Liveaboard Cruise Director Podcast
  • Diving Triton Bay Podcast
  • Diving Tubbataha Reef Podcast
  • Diving Yap Podcast
  • Diving Truk Lagoon Podcast
  • Diving Sogod Bay Podcast
  • Misool Eco Resort Podcast
  • Diving Palau Podcast
  • The Manta Rays Of Myanmar’s Black Rock Podcast
  • Diving Myanmar Podcast
  • Diving Bali Podcast
  • Diving Cenderawasih Bay Podcast
  • Diving Komodo Podcast
  • Diving Raja Ampat Podcast
  • Dive Happy Podcast Home Page

My Recent Dive Trips

  • February 2023: Similan Islands liveaboard, Thailand
  • December 2022: Raja Ampat liveaboard, Indonesia
  • December 2022: Similan Islands liveaboard, Thailand
  • August 2022: Komodo liveaboard, Indonesia
  • June 2022: USAT Liberty shipwreck, Bali, Indonesia
  • April 2022: Stonehenge, Koh Lipe, Thailand
  • March 2022: Manta Rays at Koh Bon, Thailand
  • January 2022: Richelieu Rock liveaboard, Thailand
  • March 2021: HTMS Chang and Alahambra Rock liveaboard, Thailand
  • February 2020: Similan Islands liveaboard, Thailand
  • December 2019: Raja Ampat liveaboard, Indonesia
  • October 2019: Malapascua, Philippines
  • June 2019: Sogod Bay, Philippines
  • April 2019: Tulamben, Bali
  • December 2018: Sogod Bay, Philippines
  • December 2018: Anilao, Philippines
  • October 2018: Moalboal, Philippines
  • October 2018: Malapascua, Philippines
  • July 2018: Tulamben, Bali
  • May 2018: Raja Ampat, Indonesia
  • April 2018: Sogod Bay, Philippines
  • May 2017: Apo Island and Dumaguete, Philippines
  • April 2017: Tubbataha Reef, Philippines
  • April 2017: Sogod Bay, Philippines
  • March 2017: Triton Bay, Indonesia
  • March 2017: Raja Ampat, Indonesia
  • September 2016: Tulamben, Bali at Alba Dive Resort
  • August 2016: Cenderawasih Bay on Damai 1
  • April 2016: Sogod Bay at Sogod Bay Scuba Resort
  • February 2016: Raja Ampat and Banda Islands on Damai 1
  • April 2015: Anilao at Crystal Dive Resort

My Less Recent Dive Trips

  • March 2015: Myanmar and Similan Islands on Thailand Aggressor
  • May 2013: Similan Islands on Thailand Aggressor
  • April 2013: Tubbataha Reef on Discovery Palawan
  • January 2013: Komodo, Indonesia on MSY Damai
  • August 2012: Cenderawasih Bay, Indonesia
  • April 2012: Similan Islands and Southern Thailand liveaboard
  • January 2012: Similan Islands liveaboard, Thailand
  • August 2011: Hanifaru, Maldives
  • June 2011: Tubbataha Liveaboard Hans Christian Andersen
  • April 2011: Similan Islands and Southern Thailand liveaboard
  • April 2011: Carpe Vita Liveaboard, Maldives
  • March 2011: Lembeh Strait, Indonesia
  • December 2010: Menjangan, Bali
  • July 2010: Tofo, Mozambique
  • July 2010: Sardine Run, South Africa
  • May 2010: Sangalaki / Derawan, Tambora
  • March 2010: MV Flying Seahorse, Similan Islands
  • March 2010: MV Orion, Southern Maldives
  • January 2010: Big Blue Explorer, Palau
  • November 2009: MSY Damai, Banda Sea Liveaboard, Indonesia
  • October 2009: MSY Damai, Komodo Liveaboard, Indonesia
  • October 2009: MV Orion, Maldives Liveaboard
  • September 2009: MV Scubanet, Koh Losin, Thailand
  • May 2009: MSY Seahorse, Banda Sea liveaboard, Indonesia
  • March 2009: Sachika Liveaboard, Maldives
  • February 2009: Daytrips, Koh Lanta, Thailand
  • January 2009: MV Jazz, Burma (Myanmar) Liveaboard

Back In The Day Bragging Rights Dive Trips

  • November 2008: Borneo Explorer, Visayas Liveaboard
  • September 2008: S/Y Siren, Komodo Liveaboard
  • August 2008: Ocean Rover, Sulawesi Liveaboard
  • August 2008: NAD Lembeh Resort, Indonesia
  • June 2008: Koh Tao
  • March 2008: Maldives, Bandos Island
  • February 2008: MSY Seahorse, Raja Ampat Liveaboard
  • January 2008: MV Jazz, Burma Liveaboard
  • October 2007: Bali Dive Safari
  • September 2007: Davao, Philippines
  • July 2007: Great White Sharks, Rodney Fox Liveaboard
  • June 2007: Big Blue, Palau Liveaboard
  • May 2007: Whale Sharks at Exmouth, Australia
  • April 2007: Borneo Explorer, Tubbataha Reef Liveaboard
  • December 2006: Komodo Dancer, Komodo Liveaboard

Disclosure: Divehappy.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com and amazon.co.uk).

© 2005–2023 DiveHappy.com. All Rights Reserved. Privacy Policy