Castle Rock, Komodo

Sharks and super fishy action are the main draw of Castle Rock, one of Komodo’s most exciting dive sites

Whitetip shark in the corals, Castle Rock, Komodo © [email protected]

As I wrote in an article for EZ Dive magazine about diving Komodo back in 2008:

“…we headed to Gili Lawa Laut. This area has three of Komodo’s stand out dive sites – The Lighthouse, Crystal Rock and the real king of the hill, Castle Rock. All three sites are prone to extreme currents but they are also the congregating point for thousands of fish. Casstle Rock in particular provided a couple of absolutely mesmerizing dives, the plateau of the rock below becoming the setting for an early morning smorgasbord of snapper, jacks, and fusilier schools all intertwining with each other and then separating again, while below sharks rode the currents biding their time for breakfast. I watched amazed as a dolphin broke up the coral with its beak to find food, before heading up to the surface right in front of us to be reunited with its calf. The first thing everyone one asked when they got out of the water at Castle Rock was ‘When are we going back in?'”

Coral Arch, Castle Rock, Komodo © [email protected]

Topographically, Castle Rock is a big underwater sea mount starting a few metres below the surface depending on the tide and then spreading out into a massive underwater plateau.

Divers typically go down to 25 metres or so and potion themselves behind one of the big bommies there in order to peer into the blue and look for grey reef sharks. They are usually there cruising back and forth just off the edge of the rock – it’s like watching two lane traffic.

If luck is on your side, besides the sharks you’ll see the blue above the bommies just fill with fish, as described above, as they come in on the current to hunt or be hunted. It can feel like being in the front row of an IMAX screen.

Coral bommie, Castle Rock, Komodo © [email protected]

Unsurprisingly, Castle Rock is subject to a lot of current which means you can get pushed off to the other, more protected side of the rock or out into the blue. Pay close attention to the dive brief and stick close to your dive guide once in the water, as conditions can change rapidly.

The reef at Castle Rock is somewhat more bashed up than neighbouring Crystal Rock. You can still find sharks resting in some the nooks and crannies and there’s some nice hard coral bommies and plate corals.

Castle Rock is very popular these days, and there are a lot of day boats and liveaboards all trying to drop divers on the site. Being on a boat that gets there at first light before other boats is often the best way to enjoy it, but skilled operators will know how to read the tides and current for the best chance of seeing Castle Rock at its best.