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Return To The USS Lagarto – July 2008

The Thailand technical diving vessel MV Trident returned to the wreck of World War II submarine USS Lagarto in July 2008, to check on the wreck’s state one year on from their last inspection. Ayesha Cantrell describes what they saw on their guardianship dive.

What’s the best dive you’ve ever done? It’s a question I get asked a lot and one that used to be difficult to answer before I set eyes on the USS Lagarto.

This WWII submarine was lost without a trace close to the end of the war and re-discovered at a depth of 73m, almost 60 years to the day that she went missing. Trips to see her are very restricted – only the owners of MV Trident, Jamie Macleod and Stewart Oehl, know where she lies and have subsequently protected her location as the Lagarto is a war grave. This return trip was one year after the Trident’s last visit in order to check on the submarine’s current status.

I’m one of handful of divers to have seen the Lagarto and jumped at the chance to pay my respects a second time. My first experience left me awestruck and I was interested to see her impact the second time around. (You can read my account of my first visit to the Lagarto here).


Gun on the Lagarto

I was also curious to note any changes in her. Sitting in the warm tropical waters of the Gulf of Thailand, a wreck is prone to the elements. The ravages of salt water and the damage inflicted by fishing nets all pose serious threats to the integrity of a wreck. I’ve watched another wreck slip from sitting upright to listing on a 45 degree angle as it literally disintegrates into the sand. I’ve noticed once solid bulkheads now bending at the lightest touch – sometimes you return to find decks have collapsed or machinery has been dragged away by fishing nets. It’s sad to see history lose the battle with nature and know that these sites will not endure as long as their legendary tales.

Over the 60 years that the Lagarto’s kept a silent watch on the depths, the environment seems to have been kind to her. Fishing nets shroud her in places and are probably responsible for the loss of radio masts and the more flimsy deck accoutrements. Apart from the obvious depth charge damage the overall impression is a fully intact wreck standing the test of time. Deterioration, simply caused by 60 years in warm salty tropical water, is noted towards the bow and I was pleased to note that this has not worsened in the past 18 months.


Diver with the Lagarto’s anchor

Surprisingly the conning tower including its instrumentation and periscope shears have held out against net damage and remain in place as underwater exhibits. The original teak decking has long since perished. This has laid bare the tangle of pipes and cables lying beneath in which fish now seek refuge from the giant red snappers stalking the deck.

The two 5 inch guns still face fore and aft and remain menacingly in place, decorated now by feather stars and framed by grand sea fans they are truly impressive. The 40mm gun closest to the con now lies on the deck pointing awkwardly starboard – pinned down by fishing nets, the culprit is obvious.

Happily very little has changed on the wreck. A couple of new snagged fishing nets were noticed and carefully floated free of the wreck, making the vessel safer to dive on. The only thing to be noticeably missing was the Stars and Stripes that once waved in the current, attached to the top of the conning tower. The flag was placed there as a mark of respect over two years ago, so its loss was not entirely unpredictable but still disappointing. A Star Spangled Banner is not part of the usual dive kit, so we were unable to honour those lost by replacing it this time round. It is the top priority for the next team who visit.


Lagarto memorial plaque

The memorial plaque left by the US Navy two years ago shows the passage of time underwater a little more clearly. Originally shiny brass and newly plaited rope commemorated this war grave. The plaque is now green, the lettering obscured, the rope fraying and coral growth is making its steady march to claim this for the sea too.

This wreck was a pleasure to visit again and I can only surmise that the spirit of its final battle and the thoughts of the families who lost their loved ones have helped the wreck in its battle for survival against the elements. She will endure yet.



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My Recent Dive Trips

  • February 2023: Similan Islands liveaboard, Thailand
  • December 2022: Raja Ampat liveaboard, Indonesia
  • December 2022: Similan Islands liveaboard, Thailand
  • August 2022: Komodo liveaboard, Indonesia
  • June 2022: USAT Liberty shipwreck, Bali, Indonesia
  • April 2022: Stonehenge, Koh Lipe, Thailand
  • March 2022: Manta Rays at Koh Bon, Thailand
  • January 2022: Richelieu Rock liveaboard, Thailand
  • March 2021: HTMS Chang and Alahambra Rock liveaboard, Thailand
  • February 2020: Similan Islands liveaboard, Thailand
  • December 2019: Raja Ampat liveaboard, Indonesia
  • October 2019: Malapascua, Philippines
  • June 2019: Sogod Bay, Philippines
  • April 2019: Tulamben, Bali
  • December 2018: Sogod Bay, Philippines
  • December 2018: Anilao, Philippines
  • October 2018: Moalboal, Philippines
  • October 2018: Malapascua, Philippines
  • July 2018: Tulamben, Bali
  • May 2018: Raja Ampat, Indonesia
  • April 2018: Sogod Bay, Philippines
  • May 2017: Apo Island and Dumaguete, Philippines
  • April 2017: Tubbataha Reef, Philippines
  • April 2017: Sogod Bay, Philippines
  • March 2017: Triton Bay, Indonesia
  • March 2017: Raja Ampat, Indonesia
  • September 2016: Tulamben, Bali at Alba Dive Resort
  • August 2016: Cenderawasih Bay on Damai 1
  • April 2016: Sogod Bay at Sogod Bay Scuba Resort
  • February 2016: Raja Ampat and Banda Islands on Damai 1
  • April 2015: Anilao at Crystal Dive Resort

My Less Recent Dive Trips

  • March 2015: Myanmar and Similan Islands on Thailand Aggressor
  • May 2013: Similan Islands on Thailand Aggressor
  • April 2013: Tubbataha Reef on Discovery Palawan
  • January 2013: Komodo, Indonesia on MSY Damai
  • August 2012: Cenderawasih Bay, Indonesia
  • April 2012: Similan Islands and Southern Thailand liveaboard
  • January 2012: Similan Islands liveaboard, Thailand
  • August 2011: Hanifaru, Maldives
  • June 2011: Tubbataha Liveaboard Hans Christian Andersen
  • April 2011: Similan Islands and Southern Thailand liveaboard
  • April 2011: Carpe Vita Liveaboard, Maldives
  • March 2011: Lembeh Strait, Indonesia
  • December 2010: Menjangan, Bali
  • July 2010: Tofo, Mozambique
  • July 2010: Sardine Run, South Africa
  • May 2010: Sangalaki / Derawan, Tambora
  • March 2010: MV Flying Seahorse, Similan Islands
  • March 2010: MV Orion, Southern Maldives
  • January 2010: Big Blue Explorer, Palau
  • November 2009: MSY Damai, Banda Sea Liveaboard, Indonesia
  • October 2009: MSY Damai, Komodo Liveaboard, Indonesia
  • October 2009: MV Orion, Maldives Liveaboard
  • September 2009: MV Scubanet, Koh Losin, Thailand
  • May 2009: MSY Seahorse, Banda Sea liveaboard, Indonesia
  • March 2009: Sachika Liveaboard, Maldives
  • February 2009: Daytrips, Koh Lanta, Thailand
  • January 2009: MV Jazz, Burma (Myanmar) Liveaboard

Back In The Day Bragging Rights Dive Trips

  • November 2008: Borneo Explorer, Visayas Liveaboard
  • September 2008: S/Y Siren, Komodo Liveaboard
  • August 2008: Ocean Rover, Sulawesi Liveaboard
  • August 2008: NAD Lembeh Resort, Indonesia
  • June 2008: Koh Tao
  • March 2008: Maldives, Bandos Island
  • February 2008: MSY Seahorse, Raja Ampat Liveaboard
  • January 2008: MV Jazz, Burma Liveaboard
  • October 2007: Bali Dive Safari
  • September 2007: Davao, Philippines
  • July 2007: Great White Sharks, Rodney Fox Liveaboard
  • June 2007: Big Blue, Palau Liveaboard
  • May 2007: Whale Sharks at Exmouth, Australia
  • April 2007: Borneo Explorer, Tubbataha Reef Liveaboard
  • December 2006: Komodo Dancer, Komodo Liveaboard

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