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Burma Liveaboard Trip Report Part 1 – Eagle’s Nest To Pygmy Palm Point

This is my trip report of a Burma scuba diving liveaboard on the MV Jazz in January 2009. Parts 1 and 2 cover the actual Myanmar dive sites, and Part 3 is a rundown of what the MV Jazz is like as a boat.

Soft Corals, Burma

UPDATE: the MV Jazz is no longer operating. We recommend diving Burma with MV Dolphin Queen.

Part 1 – Diving Burma, Day 1 and 2

Getting To The Liveaboard
Currently all Burma liveaboards depart from Thailand and cross over into Burma, clearing immigration along the way. The MV Jazz Burma trip began with a 4 hour minivan transfer from Phuket Airport to the Thai border town of Ranong, from where the MV Jazz would depart. We arrived at a seafood restaurant near the pier just before sundown for some Thai food and beer while the boat arrived from its previous trip in the Similan Islands.

Burmese Immigration
Once on the boat, everyone handed over their passports, $200 US cash, 4 passport photos and photocopies of their passport information pages to the MV Jazz staff. These which were then presented to the Burmese immigration officers who came on board once the boat had crossed from Ranong to the Myanmar town of Kaw Thung. The guests didn’t have to do anything during this process – the immigration officials are used to the MV Jazz making regular trips and so entry into Burma is expedited. Once that was done, it was an overnight sail to our first dive site.

Diving In Myanmar
The dive site Eagle’s Nest is a great introduction to Burma diving – the blasted limestone rock rises out of the ocean with nothing else around it, with birds of prey wheeling around. It’s quite desolate looking, but also quite beautiful – a real contrast to the Similan Islands. The water is greener and colder too – it hovered between 28 and a bum numbing 25 degrees. Once underwater, the limestone rocks appear purplish and are blocky and jagged, like huge great slabs leaning together.

httpv://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MsLbGAU_WlA

Enter The Leopard Shark
After spotting a couple of octopus skittering across the reef and a huge stingray lurking under a rock, along with the ever present moray eels lurking in the limestone cracks and clownfish on the carpets of anemones, we had an awesome to finale to the first dive – a close encounter with a leopard shark, which are usually very shy of divers, but this one decided to get up close and personal – see the video.

Soft Corals

Sea Fans And Soft Corals
For the first couple of days, we were not blessed with very good visibility, but it didn’t really matter – the soft coral that covers many of Burma’s sites is abundant and brightly coloured, and the size of the sea fans at some of the sites, like the obviously named Fan Forest Pinnacle, are just breathtaking. Many are more than a couple of metres wide and tall, bigger than a diver, and are all sorts of colours, from electric orange to delicate pink.

Sea Fan

The sea fans and soft corals can really save the day on some dives – Twin Cheeks is a submerged pinnacle that doesn’t begin until 12 metres, and there’s not much to see above 20 metres – it’s a fairly featureless plain (“like the upturned hull of the Kaiser Wilhelm” as one wreck enthusiast mournfully put it). Veer below 20 metres where the pinnacle slopes steeply and you suddenly encounter a riot of colour, as fans explode from the incline and soft corals cover the rocks. It reminded me a little of Triton Bay, where the viz is also famously bad but no impediment to enjoying the colours of the corals.

Crayfish in the tunnel of Crayfish Cave

Tunnel Vision
Tunnels are a characteristic of Burma diving as the sea has eroded through the limestone rocks – Crayfish Cave is a particularly good example, which is a 15 metre or so tunnel that goes right through to the other side of the dive site, and is home to some impressively large crayfish. Several of the sites we visited had swimthroughs, ravines and tunnels, with the most spectacular being at In Through The Out Door, which we arrived at on Day 3.

Dynamite fishermen at Pgymy Palm Point, Burma

Dynamite Fishing Returns To Burma
One dispiriting thing we witnessed on several dive sites was a few dead fish scattered across the reef, the fallout of dynamite fishing that had been carried out several miles away from where we were diving. The Burmese fishermen had all but stopped using dynamite in the last 3-4 years – I saw no evidence of it on last year’s Burma trip, for example – but this time round we saw undeniable evidence. Things came to a head when we arrived at Pygmy Palm Pinnacle towards the end of the second day to see a huge plume of water erupt into the air as we approached the site – there were fishermen already there dropping bombs on the reef. When we looked closely at the photos of one of the boats afterwards, we saw the distinct shape of a shark fin poking out from beneath a tarpaulin.

The beautiful boulders of Pygmy Palm Point

Tour leaders Ric and Clive set about taking photos of the two fishing boats we saw there and the Thai staff on board tried to find out more info about the boats, so as to report them to the Burmese authorities on our return to Kaw Thung. It was clearly dangerous to dive anywhere near these boats, so the Jazz diverted to another site which turned out to be not much fun due to a strong current.

It’s difficult to say whether this is just a small resurgence or the beginning of a full scale dynamite fishing campaign that will ruin Burma’s reefs again. It’s only through dive liveaboards visiting this area that these activities – and the damage to the reef – can be witnessed and recorded and reported to the relevant authorities. One thing that becomes apparent from looking at the primitive equipment the fishermen use is how easy it is for a small group of men with little gear to cause a lot of damage very quickly to the reefs.

    Burma Liveaboard Trip Report January 2009

  • Part 1 – Diving Burma, Day 1 and 2
  • Part 2 – Diving Burma, Day 3 and 4
  • Part 3 – MV Jazz : Liveaboard Report

More Burma Photos [click to enlarge]

Crayfish in the tunnel of Crayfish Cave
Soft Corals
Dynamite fishermen at Pgymy Palm Point, Burma
The beautiful boulders of Pygmy Palm Point
Sea Fan
MV Jazz moored at Kawthaung, Burma
MV Jazz moored at Kawthaung. Burma



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My Recent Dive Trips

  • November 2024: Similan Islands liveaboard, Thailand
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  • May 2024: Similan Islands liveaboard, Thailand
  • April 2024: Sogod Bay, Philippines
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  • January 2024:Gangga Island Resort, Indonesia
  • December 2023: Similan Islands liveaboard, Thailand
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  • October 2023: Similan Islands liveaboard, Thailand
  • June 2023: Raja Ampat liveaboard, Indonesia
  • April 2023: Maldives liveaboard
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  • December 2022: Raja Ampat liveaboard, Indonesia
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  • August 2022: Komodo liveaboard, Indonesia
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  • March 2021: HTMS Chang and Alahambra Rock liveaboard, Thailand
  • February 2020: Similan Islands liveaboard, Thailand
  • December 2019: Raja Ampat liveaboard, Indonesia
  • October 2019: Malapascua, Philippines
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  • December 2018: Sogod Bay, Philippines
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My Less Recent Dive Trips

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  • September 2016: Tulamben, Bali at Alba Dive Resort
  • August 2016: Cenderawasih Bay on Damai 1
  • April 2016: Sogod Bay at Sogod Bay Scuba Resort
  • February 2016: Raja Ampat and Banda Islands on Damai 1
  • April 2015: Anilao at Crystal Dive Resort
  • March 2015: Myanmar and Similan Islands on Thailand Aggressor
  • May 2013: Similan Islands on Thailand Aggressor
  • April 2013: Tubbataha Reef on Discovery Palawan
  • January 2013: Komodo, Indonesia on MSY Damai
  • August 2012: Cenderawasih Bay, Indonesia
  • April 2012: Similan Islands and Southern Thailand liveaboard
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  • August 2011: Hanifaru, Maldives
  • June 2011: Tubbataha Liveaboard Hans Christian Andersen
  • April 2011: Similan Islands and Southern Thailand liveaboard
  • April 2011: Carpe Vita Liveaboard, Maldives
  • March 2011: Lembeh Strait, Indonesia
  • December 2010: Menjangan, Bali
  • July 2010: Tofo, Mozambique
  • July 2010: Sardine Run, South Africa
  • May 2010: Sangalaki / Derawan, Tambora
  • March 2010: MV Flying Seahorse, Similan Islands
  • March 2010: MV Orion, Southern Maldives
  • January 2010: Big Blue Explorer, Palau
  • November 2009: MSY Damai, Banda Sea Liveaboard, Indonesia
  • October 2009: MSY Damai, Komodo Liveaboard, Indonesia
  • October 2009: MV Orion, Maldives Liveaboard
  • September 2009: MV Scubanet, Koh Losin, Thailand
  • May 2009: MSY Seahorse, Banda Sea liveaboard, Indonesia
  • March 2009: Sachika Liveaboard, Maldives
  • February 2009: Daytrips, Koh Lanta, Thailand
  • January 2009: MV Jazz, Burma (Myanmar) Liveaboard

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  • November 2008: Borneo Explorer, Visayas Liveaboard
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  • June 2008: Koh Tao
  • March 2008: Maldives, Bandos Island
  • February 2008: MSY Seahorse, Raja Ampat Liveaboard
  • January 2008: MV Jazz, Burma Liveaboard
  • October 2007: Bali Dive Safari
  • September 2007: Davao, Philippines
  • July 2007: Great White Sharks, Rodney Fox Liveaboard
  • June 2007: Big Blue, Palau Liveaboard
  • May 2007: Whale Sharks at Exmouth, Australia
  • April 2007: Borneo Explorer, Tubbataha Reef Liveaboard
  • December 2006: Komodo Dancer, Komodo Liveaboard

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