Dive Happy

  • Philippines
  • Indonesia
  • Thailand
  • Maldives
  • Myanmar
  • Liveaboards
  • Diving Podcast

Maldives Liveaboard Trip Report April 2023

Big fish, wrecks, currents, and epic underwater landscapes are all pretty much guaranteed on a Maldives liveaboard. Here’s a rundown of what we saw on our April 2023 Maldives trip.

Pook in the yellow snapper, Kuda Rah Thila, Maldives
Pook in the yellow snapper, Kuda Rah Thila © chris@divehappy.com

The last time I dived the Maldives before this trip was 10 years ago. I remembered April was always a good time of year to dive the Maldives, and so it proved to be in April 2023. Fantastic visibility most of the time, abundant fish life, calm seas and good weather.

Manta Ray, Rangali Madivaru, Maldives
Manta Ray, Rangali Madivaru © chris@divehappy.com

We were on the Emperor Leo liveaboard, which had a somewhat dated interior and struggling aircon but was a decent enough boat. Maldives liveaboards are usually built in a larger cruiser style than the yacht-like Indonesian phinisis or the converted fishing boats you see in Thailand.

That means there’s a lot more room in general and it’s a bit more pleasant for non-divers. Leo holds 24 divers. There’s a large dining room / lounge area, a big sundeck up top and a couple of pleasant outside areas in the front of the boat to enjoy sundowners. As is typical for Maldives liveaboards, all the scuba gear and compressor equipment travel behind the liveaboard in a separate boat, the dhoni. This is the boat which heads to the dive sites to drop and pick up divers.

Turtle, Rangali Madivaru, Maldives
Turtle, Rangali Madivaru © chris@divehappy.com

The trip followed the classic Maldives loop over the course of a week: departing from Male, heading to South Male and further south to Vaavu atoll, then across to Ari atoll and cruising south to north on Ari before making the run back into Male harbour.

Maldives Liveaboard Day 1

Bannerfish, Fish Factory (Kandu Oiy Giri), South Male, Maldives
Bannerfish, Fish Factory (Kandu Oiy Giri) © chris@divehappy.com

After a check out dive at Kurumba house reef, we moved on to Kanduoiy Giri, aka the fish factory. There is a lot of fish here feeding on the discarded fish waste from the factory on the island – big schools of banner fish hang out in the shallows along with some sizeable rays

Kuda Giri Wreck Bow, South Male, Maldives
Kuda Giri Wreck Bow © chris@divehappy.com

The Kuda Giri wreck I remembered from my previous trip here 10 years ago and the wreck looks pretty much the same – still intact and with even more coral life. The wreck is quite small so it can be a bit of a challenge with 20 plus divers on it, but the nearby reef is where divers head after checking it out so by hanging back you can get the wreck almost to yourself.

Kuda Giri Wreck, South Male, Maldives
Kuda Giri Wreck © chris@divehappy.com

Maldives Liveaboard Day 2

After a bracing start in ripping currents at Kandooma Thila which required divers to hook in to the reef for the chance to see eagle rays and sharks, the boat moved on from South Male atoll to Miyaru Kandu, “Shark Channel” on Vaavu atoll. It does what it says on the tin – hook in and watch the sharks passing back and forth.

3 Stingrays, Alimatha Jetty, Maldives
3 Stingrays, Alimatha Jetty © chris@divehappy.com

For me, the third dive at Alimanth Jetty was the highlight of the day – a gentle bob along a wide sandy channel with spectacular visibility and some amazing wildlife encounters – three big rays huddled together (it was five until I spooked them with my not as stealthy as I thought approach), a turtle imperiously posing for snaps, nurse sharks sleeping in their coral hideyholes and some big schools of sweetlips. We didn’t actually make it to the jetty, which is also famous for having nurse sharks in residence.

Maldives Liveaboard Day 3

Having crossed over to south Ari atoll yesterday evening, day 3 saw us dive did two legendary Maldives sites – Kuda Rah Thila and Rangali Madivaru. Kuda Rah Thila is famous for its archway and for the vast schools of yellow snapper that hang out here – literally thousands of them, so many you can’t see the reef. It’s an amazing feeling to swim in amongst the snapper as they part around you and then close behind – a real life fishbowl.

Archway, Kuda Rah Thila, Maldives
Archway, Kuda Rah Thila © chris@divehappy.com

We had an unsuccessful attempt at spotting a whale shark, hoping to jump in and snorkel with them, although we would have been dealing with several other boats with the same idea in mind. No whale shark showed up, and we did a consolation dive at Bodu Finohlu Beyru, which had a heartening amount of healthy hard coral but was otherwise quiet.

Pook in the yellow snapper, Kuda Rah Thila, Maldives
Pook in the yellow snapper, Kuda Rah Thila © chris@divehappy.com

Not so with Rangali Madivaru, another dive site etched on my memory from 10 years ago because it’s where I had some spectacular up-close manta ray encounters.

Fish over hard corals, Rangali Madivaru, Maldives
Fish over hard corals, Rangali Madivaru © chris@divehappy.com

Our afternoon dive there was quite dark as the light was beginning to fade even in mid afternoon, and while there was only a glimpse of a manta doing a flyby, Rangali’s amazing carpet of hard coral and huge schools of fish were wonderful to see.

Maldives Liveaboard Day 4

Manta Rays, Rangali Madivaru, Maldives
Manta Rays, Rangali Madivaru © chris@divehappy.com

Back in the water to Rengali Madivaru for the second time for the morning dive, and what a difference – the sun was streaming down and the manta rays arrived. There were at least two mantas, possibly a third, all circling around the hard corals and seemingly unbothered by the large amount of divers in the water.

Shark, Moofushi Kandu, Maldives
Shark, Moofushi Kandu © chris@divehappy.com

Moofushi Kandu was memorable for some curious white tip sharks coming quite close as we wandered along the reef, and we ended the day at Fish Head, another famous Maldives site. Some big overhangs for fish schools to gather and sharks cruising out in the blue.

Fesdu Wreck, Maldives
Fesdu Wreck © chris@divehappy.com

Maldives Liveaboard Day 5

Back in on Fish Head for a second dive in the morning, and then a visit to Maya Thila, which used to be famous for night diving but now seems very quiet. Fesdu Wreck was a bit more interesting, but the real highlight of the day came with the night dive in Fesdu Lagoon.

Manta Ray at night, Fesdu Lagoon, Maldives
Manta Ray at night, Fesdu Lagoon © chris@divehappy.com

The dive crew had set up lights on the shallow bottom of the lagoon – the lights attract plankton which in turn attract manta rays. We had at least two, maybe three mantas repeatedly circling over the light, looping out beyond our group of divers kneeling in the sand and then coming back in for another pass.

It was also possible to see the mantas without even getting in the water – they also came to the surface to the boat’s lights, barrel-rolling to continually feast on more plankton.

Manta Ray at night on the surface, Fesdu Lagoon, Maldives
Manta Ray at night on the surface, Fesdu Lagoon © chris@divehappy.com

Maldives Liveaboard Day 6

There was a final dive at Bathala Thila before we began the journey from northern Ari atoll back to Male harbour. That gave everyone time to dry out their scuba gear, pack up and relax before arriving back into harbour around 4pm. Everyone stayed on the boat that evening until disembarking early the next morning.

In conclusion, it was a solid fun trip that delivered most of the Maldives’ Greatest Hits, although no luck seeing a whale shark. The manta night dive was a highlight for me as I’d never done that before, and there is something undeniably magical about Maldivian sunrises and sunsets. It’s renewed my interest to explore more of the Maldives, such as the tiger sharks at Fuvahmulah in the south.

Complete List Of Dives for Emperor Leo April 2023 Maldives Liveaboard trip

Day 1 – north and south Male
Kurumba House Reef – north Male
Kanduoiy Giri – south Male
Kudagiri Wreck – south Male

Day 2 – Vaavu
Kandooma Thila – south Male
Miyaru Kandu – Vaavu
Alimatha Jetty – Vaavu

Day 3 – South Ari atoll
Kuda Rah Thila
Bodu Finohlu Beyru (looking for whale sharks)
Rangali Madivaru

Day 4 – South Ari atoll
Rangali Madivaru (2nd dive)
Moofushi Kandu
Fish Head – North Ari

Day 5 – North Ari
Fish Head (2nd dive)
Maaya Thila
Fesdu Wreck
Fesdu Lagoon (manta night dive)

Day 6 – North Ari
Bathala Thila

2025 Maldives Last Minute Liveaboard Deals

  • Horizon 3 - 08 Jun 2025 - from €1,000.00 - Best of the Central Atolls: Male - Ari - Vaavu - Male (Male - Male) - 50% OFF
  • Ariyal - 06 Jul 2025 - from €2,257.00 - Explore Maldives (Male - Male) - Valid for a limited time only. (30% OFF)
  • Felicity - 13 Jul 2025 - from €1,567.00 - Baa Atoll - Ari - Vaavu (Male - Male) - 50% OFF
  • Ariyal - 03 Aug 2025 - from €1,575.00 - Explore Maldives (Male - Male) - Valid for a limited time only. (50% OFF)
  • Carpe Novo - 09 Aug 2025 - from €1,514.00 - Manta Madness 2 (Dharavandhoo [DRV] - Male [MLE]) - 30% OFF
  • Carpe Vita - 23 Aug 2025 - from €1,421.00 - The Best of Maldives (Male - Male) - 30% OFF
  • Emperor Virgo - 13 Sep 2025 - from €1,638.00 - Best of Maldives (Male - Male) - 30% OFF - Valid for a limited time only.


Diving And Travel Insurance

Considering travel insurance for your trip? World Nomads offers coverage for more than 150 adventure activities including scuba diving, as well as emergency medical, lost luggage, trip cancellation and more.

Dive Happy Podcast Newsletter

In-depth conversations about the best diving hotspots in Asia. Join the free Dive Happy podcast newsletter to get the next podcast episode sent to you direct:
Listen to previous Dive Happy podcast episodes.

Last Minute Liveaboard Deals

  • Last Minute Liveaboard Deals June 2025

More Maldives Diving Stories

  • Maldives Liveaboard Trip Report April 2023
  • Maldives Liveaboard Deals 2025
  • Maldives Airport Guide
  • Best Scuba Diving In The Maldives
  • Maldives Manta Rays – Rengali Madivaru
  • Hanifaru – Where Whale Sharks And Manta Rays Meet
  • Bandos Resort Maldives – Dive Trip Report
  • MV Carpe Vita Liveaboard Review
  • MV Orion Liveaboard Review
  • MV Sachika Liveaboard Review

Dive Happy Podcast

  • Tonga Humpback Whales Podcast
  • Tubbataha Reef Diving Podcast
  • The Father Of Palau Diving: Francis Toribiong
  • Sogod Bay Diving Podcast
  • LAMAVE Volunteer Whale Shark Research
  • Dream Job: What’s It Like To Be A Marine Biologist?
  • Dumaguete Diving Podcast
  • Komodo Diving Podcast
  • Diving The Yonaguni Monument, Japan Podcast
  • Diving Koh Lanta Podcast
  • Moalboal Diving Podcast
  • Diving The Banda Sea Podcast: Part 2
  • Diving The Banda Sea Podcast: Part 1
  • Diving Hawaii Podcast
  • Diving Malapascua Podcast
  • Diving Taiwan Podcast
  • Diving Japan Podcast
  • Diving HTMS Chang And Alhambra Rock Podcast
  • Diving The WW2 Shipwrecks Of Coron Podcast
  • Diving Lembongan Podcast
  • Diving Romblon: the Philippines’ Secret Super Macro Paradise
  • Triton Bay Diving 2020 Podcast
  • Dream Job: Liveaboard Cruise Director Podcast
  • Diving Triton Bay Podcast
  • Diving Tubbataha Reef Podcast
  • Diving Yap Podcast
  • Diving Truk Lagoon Podcast
  • Diving Sogod Bay Podcast
  • Misool Eco Resort Podcast
  • Diving Palau Podcast
  • The Manta Rays Of Myanmar’s Black Rock Podcast
  • Diving Myanmar Podcast
  • Diving Bali Podcast
  • Diving Cenderawasih Bay Podcast
  • Diving Komodo Podcast
  • Diving Raja Ampat Podcast
  • Dive Happy Podcast Home Page

My Recent Dive Trips

  • November 2024: Similan Islands liveaboard, Thailand
  • October 2024: Forgotten Islands and Banda Sea liveaboard, Indonesia
  • August 2024: Komodo and Saleh Bay liveaboard, Indonesia
  • May 2024: Similan Islands liveaboard, Thailand
  • April 2024: Sogod Bay, Philippines
  • February 2024: Similan Islands liveaboard, Thailand
  • January 2024:Gangga Island Resort, Indonesia
  • December 2023: Similan Islands liveaboard, Thailand
  • Mejangan Island, Bali
  • October 2023: Similan Islands liveaboard, Thailand
  • June 2023: Raja Ampat liveaboard, Indonesia
  • April 2023: Maldives liveaboard
  • April 2023: Similan Islands liveaboard, Thailand
  • February 2023: Similan Islands liveaboard, Thailand
  • December 2022: Raja Ampat liveaboard, Indonesia
  • December 2022: Similan Islands liveaboard, Thailand
  • August 2022: Komodo liveaboard, Indonesia
  • June 2022: USAT Liberty shipwreck, Bali, Indonesia
  • April 2022: Stonehenge, Koh Lipe, Thailand
  • March 2022: Manta Rays at Koh Bon, Thailand
  • January 2022: Richelieu Rock liveaboard, Thailand
  • March 2021: HTMS Chang and Alahambra Rock liveaboard, Thailand
  • February 2020: Similan Islands liveaboard, Thailand
  • December 2019: Raja Ampat liveaboard, Indonesia
  • October 2019: Malapascua, Philippines
  • June 2019: Sogod Bay, Philippines
  • April 2019: Tulamben, Bali
  • December 2018: Sogod Bay, Philippines
  • December 2018: Anilao, Philippines
  • October 2018: Moalboal, Philippines
  • October 2018: Malapascua, Philippines
  • July 2018: Tulamben, Bali
  • May 2018: Raja Ampat, Indonesia
  • April 2018: Sogod Bay, Philippines

My Less Recent Dive Trips

  • May 2017: Apo Island and Dumaguete, Philippines
  • April 2017: Tubbataha Reef, Philippines
  • April 2017: Sogod Bay, Philippines
  • March 2017: Triton Bay, Indonesia
  • March 2017: Raja Ampat, Indonesia
  • September 2016: Tulamben, Bali at Alba Dive Resort
  • August 2016: Cenderawasih Bay on Damai 1
  • April 2016: Sogod Bay at Sogod Bay Scuba Resort
  • February 2016: Raja Ampat and Banda Islands on Damai 1
  • April 2015: Anilao at Crystal Dive Resort
  • March 2015: Myanmar and Similan Islands on Thailand Aggressor
  • May 2013: Similan Islands on Thailand Aggressor
  • April 2013: Tubbataha Reef on Discovery Palawan
  • January 2013: Komodo, Indonesia on MSY Damai
  • August 2012: Cenderawasih Bay, Indonesia
  • April 2012: Similan Islands and Southern Thailand liveaboard
  • January 2012: Similan Islands liveaboard, Thailand
  • August 2011: Hanifaru, Maldives
  • June 2011: Tubbataha Liveaboard Hans Christian Andersen
  • April 2011: Similan Islands and Southern Thailand liveaboard
  • April 2011: Carpe Vita Liveaboard, Maldives
  • March 2011: Lembeh Strait, Indonesia
  • December 2010: Menjangan, Bali
  • July 2010: Tofo, Mozambique
  • July 2010: Sardine Run, South Africa
  • May 2010: Sangalaki / Derawan, Tambora
  • March 2010: MV Flying Seahorse, Similan Islands
  • March 2010: MV Orion, Southern Maldives
  • January 2010: Big Blue Explorer, Palau
  • November 2009: MSY Damai, Banda Sea Liveaboard, Indonesia
  • October 2009: MSY Damai, Komodo Liveaboard, Indonesia
  • October 2009: MV Orion, Maldives Liveaboard
  • September 2009: MV Scubanet, Koh Losin, Thailand
  • May 2009: MSY Seahorse, Banda Sea liveaboard, Indonesia
  • March 2009: Sachika Liveaboard, Maldives
  • February 2009: Daytrips, Koh Lanta, Thailand
  • January 2009: MV Jazz, Burma (Myanmar) Liveaboard

Back In The Day Bragging Rights Dive Trips

  • November 2008: Borneo Explorer, Visayas Liveaboard
  • September 2008: S/Y Siren, Komodo Liveaboard
  • August 2008: Ocean Rover, Sulawesi Liveaboard
  • August 2008: NAD Lembeh Resort, Indonesia
  • June 2008: Koh Tao
  • March 2008: Maldives, Bandos Island
  • February 2008: MSY Seahorse, Raja Ampat Liveaboard
  • January 2008: MV Jazz, Burma Liveaboard
  • October 2007: Bali Dive Safari
  • September 2007: Davao, Philippines
  • July 2007: Great White Sharks, Rodney Fox Liveaboard
  • June 2007: Big Blue, Palau Liveaboard
  • May 2007: Whale Sharks at Exmouth, Australia
  • April 2007: Borneo Explorer, Tubbataha Reef Liveaboard
  • December 2006: Komodo Dancer, Komodo Liveaboard

Disclosure: Divehappy.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com and amazon.co.uk).

World Nomads provides travel insurance for travellers in over 100 countries. As an affiliate, we receive a fee when you get a quote from World Nomads using this link. We do not represent World Nomads. This is information only and not a recommendation to buy travel insurance.

© 2005–2025 DiveHappy.com. All Rights Reserved. Privacy Policy

  • Diving The Similan Islands 2025: A Quick Guide
  • Similan Liveaboard Trip Report 9-13 February 2025
  • Barracuda Tornado, Koh Tachai, Similan Islands February 2025
  • Manta Ray at Koh Bon, Similan Islands, February 2025
  • Jacks Tornado, Richelieu Rock, February 2025