Dive Happy

  • Philippines
  • Indonesia
  • Thailand
  • Maldives
  • Myanmar
  • Liveaboards
  • Diving Podcast

Similan Islands: After The Tsunami

The Similan Islands have survived the tsunami, and are poised to strengthen their reputation as Thailand’s premier dive destinatio

Coral Fan And Glass Fish at Anita's Reef, Similan Islands, Thailand

[This article originally appeared in Asian Diver magazine, Apr/May 2005, under the title A Drop In The Ocean]

It was the moment everyone had been hoping for. Gliding beside Koh Bon’s wall was a four-metre wide manta ray, which seemingly appeared from nowhere and was unfazed by the gaggle of divers scattered in pairs around it. The manta cruised parallel to the wall, every diver mesmerised by its size and grace. Then it broke from its path, shot up vertically to show off a snow-white underside, and twisted back out into the blue.

Although it was only a fleeting encounter, everyone felt blessed twice over: the sighting was a magical moment for those who saw it; and the manta in some small way symbolised how well the Similan Islands are thriving in the wake of the tsunami.

Back on board the boat, the divers grinned delightedly. “I’m saying nothing,” the owner of the MV Dolphin Queen said ironically, flapping his arms to the mock indignation of Melissa, the one dive guide whose group missed out on the main event. It was the first time mantas had been seen all season. And beyond a magical encounter, it lifted the mood immensely.

The sense of celebration was in marked contrast to the excited, but slightly apprehensive atmosphere on board the MV Dolphin Queen when it departed Khao Lak two days earlier. Many of those on board the four-day trip had dived the Similans before the tsunami, and were concerned about the widely differing damage reports. Hoping for the best but preparing for the worst, from the very first dive everyone was taken aback by the excellent health of the reefs. As Thailand’s premier dive destination and a protected marine park, the uninhabited Similans – and the additional sites of Koh Bon, Koh Tachai and Richelieu Rock – had, we discovered, escaped relatively unscathed.

Barracuda, Richelieu Rock. Thailand

Storm in a Teacup
The very first dive was at East of Eden, a rightly revered Similans site thanks to the huge bommie that is its centrepiece. A sandy slope drops from five metres down to 35m, allowing divers to devote their full attention to the stunning diversity of the corals and creatures living amongst them.

Visibility in the Similans is typically 20m, at least, making the bommie the stuff of photographers’ dreams. To our surprise, East of Eden remained wholly unaffected by the tsunami – towering out of the slope it’s a riot of colours between hard and soft corals, with scores of different fish species hovering around it. Indeed, without wanting to sound blasé, East of Eden is a microcosm of every Similans site – an abundance of aquatic life that will have divers reaching for the fish identification books after every dive.

Above water, the islands have been noticeably affected by erosion, but the pristine beaches remain intact – perfect for a surface interval visit. With the heat of the day tempered by sea breezes under brilliant blue skies, plus spectacular Thai sunrises and sunsets, life aboard this Similans’ live-aboard was like living in a dream.

Bruised But Not Battered
The Similans’ sites divide roughly into two categories – sandy slopes like East Of Eden and Breakfast Bend, with spectacular swathes of coral; and more challenging, big boulder sites like North Point and Elephant Head Rock. The boulders provide cover from strong currents (which do occur) while offering up some scenic swimthroughs. On this trip North Point was one of my most memorable dives. I spotted a grey reef shark at 30m, and watched as a turtle headed for the surface during the safety stop.

One site that didn’t escape the tsunami is Deep Six, located off Similan Island Seven. According to the crew, the site’s been comprehensively destroyed – the boulders tossed around and smashed open. Similarly, we avoided Snapper Alley and the Boon Sung wreck, which is closer to Khao Lak’s shore. Previously a haven for a large variety of fish, and a great last dive location for returning live-aboards, the wreck has been ripped wide open by the tsunami. A scattering of exposed girders sticking up from the sand over a much wider area is the only remnant of the former dredger. Given that the visibility has deteriorated close to the shoreline, it makes for a hazardous dive.

Beyond the Similans, Koh Bon’s exhilarating wall dive escaped the tsunami and remains the best site to see manta rays. Koh Tachai has been affected by the tsunami, albeit minimally – the coral on the plateau itself is battered and bruised, but not to the point where it’s undiveable. Koh Tachai is also a spotting point for mantas, so few were going to argue with paying it a visit. We didn’t see any on our lone dive there, but the site offered up a group of leopard sharks on the sand at 25m.

Richelieu Rock marks the climax of most Similans’ live-aboards because it’s the furthest geographical point. The tip of this horseshoe-shaped rock sticks out of the sea at low tide – its mid-ocean location makes it susceptible to strong currents, but also a haven for underwater life. Outside the horseshoe, divers can disappear to 30m quite easily in search of the sharks, and even seahorses that are known to live at the end of one of the horseshoe’s edges. Enter the rock and there’s a plethora of stonefish and lionfish seeking shelter, along with innumerable shoals of other species. Richelieu, then and now, is a breathtaking site: there was no evidence the tsunami has caused it any harm. Indeed, Richelieu was the best I’d seen on three separate visits.

Homeward Bound
As the boat steamed back to port, we encountered a remarkable piece of luck. On the last day the captain began yelling incomprehensively. In between excited breaths he explained he’d seen a manta ray near the surface. None of the divers gathered on the deck needed any prompting – everyone dropped straight into the ocean with mask and snorkels a few seconds after the boat came to a standstill.

And for a few glorious minutes, we were privileged to see a single manta as it swooped below us, spiralling downwards to the depths in a pirouette that made it seem as if it was showing off. It would be hard to ask for more as a finale to the miraculous expedition.

Back on shore, we dispersed to our separate hotels. Khao Lak was badly damaged by the tsunami, but the town is no longer the disaster area portrayed by the media. There are still over a thousand hotel rooms available in Khao Lak, and the businesses along the town’s main road have nearly all reopened.

There’s been no shortage of news coverage about the terrible events of the tsunami, but there has been a definite lack of reporting on how those communities affected are getting their lives back together. As Clive White, an English dive instructor based in Khao Lak who witnessed the tsunami and its aftermath succinctly puts it: “The real tragedy for the Thais is starting now. If no tourists come, they can’t rebuild their businesses and get on with their lives.” Simply by choosing to spend a holiday diving the Similans, divers can help those coming to terms with the disaster.

The Similan Islands have been irrevocably changed by the tsunami, and some might argue irrevocably damaged in places. But are the Similans still worth diving? The answer can only be an emphatic “Yes!” The abundance of marine life remains staggering; the damaged corals are certainly noticeable at times but not heartbreaking; and the Similans provide a spectacular live-aboard experience at prices that are hard to match anywhere else in the world. For me, as for the other happy divers who disembarked that glorious February afternoon, the Similans remain one of the most memorable places to dive in Southeast Asia.



Diving And Travel Insurance

Considering travel insurance for your trip? World Nomads offers coverage for more than 150 adventure activities including scuba diving, as well as emergency medical, lost luggage, trip cancellation and more.

Start Planning Your Thailand Dive Trip Now!

:: Check the availability and pricing of liveaboards in Thailand and book online.


:: Find the cheapest flights to Thailand - Phuket (airport code: HKT) is the nearest airport for diving the Similan Islands. You can get direct international flights to Phuket or go via one of Bangkok's two airports - Suvarnabhumi (BKK), the main airport, or Don Mueang (DMK), the low cost carrier terminal.


:: Make sure you don't forget to bring any of the essentials for your scuba diving trip with our comprehensive Liveaboard Packing List


:: World Nomads offers simple and flexible travel insurance. Buy at home or while traveling and claim online from anywhere in the world.


:: Find available places to stay in Phuket for before and after your liveaboard on Booking.com - usually you can reserve a room with no upfront payment. Pay when you check out. Free cancellations too.


:: Need inspiration? See our Best Places To Dive In Thailand for ideas of where to go and what to do.


Dive Happy Podcast Newsletter

In-depth conversations about the best diving hotspots in Asia. Join the free Dive Happy podcast newsletter to get the next podcast episode sent to you direct:
Listen to previous Dive Happy podcast episodes.

Last Minute Liveaboard Deals

  • Last Minute Liveaboard Deals May 2025

Similan Liveaboard Reports 2024

  • Diving The Similan Islands 2025: A Quick Guide
  • Similan Islands Liveaboard 21-25 November 2024 Trip Report
  • Similan Islands Liveaboard 6 – 10 May 2024 Trip Report
  • Similan Islands Liveaboard 21 – 25 February 2024
  • Similan Islands Liveaboard 15-19 February 2024

Similan Liveaboard Reports 2023

  • Similan Islands Liveaboard Trip Report December 2023
  • Similan Liveaboard Trip Report October 2023
  • Similan Islands Liveaboard April 2023 Trip Report
  • Similan Islands Liveaboard Trip Report February 2023

Similan Liveaboard Reports 2022

  • Similan Islands Liveaboard Trip Report December 2022
  • Similan Islands Liveaboard February 2020
  • Myanmar And Similan Islands Liveaboard Trip Report March 2015

Similan Islands DIve Sites

  • Similan Islands Dive Sites Overview
  • West Of Eden
  • Shark’s Fin Reef
  • Boulder City
  • Three Trees
  • Christmas Point
  • North Point
  • Hideaway Bay and Tuna Wreck
  • Koh Bon
  • Koh Bon Pinnacle
  • Ao Suthep, Surin Islands
  • Richelieu Rock

More Thailand Diving Stories

  • Thailand Aggressor Relaunches November 2024
  • Blue Dolphin Liveaboard Review
  • Diving Stonehenge, Koh Lipe, April 2022
  • Whale Shark At Hin Daeng April 2021
  • Diving HTMS Chang and Alahambra Rock
  • Thailand’s Best Dive Sites
  • Where To See Manta Rays In Thailand
  • Whale Sharks In Thailand: Where To See Them
  • Are There Great White Sharks In Thailand?
  • Koh Lanta Diving
  • Koh Tao: An Introduction
  • Diving The USS Lagarto Submarine – Richie Kohler interview
  • Cheap Scuba Diving In Asia
  • Thailand Diving Home

Dive Happy Podcast

  • Tonga Humpback Whales Podcast
  • Tubbataha Reef Diving Podcast
  • The Father Of Palau Diving: Francis Toribiong
  • Sogod Bay Diving Podcast
  • LAMAVE Volunteer Whale Shark Research
  • Dream Job: What’s It Like To Be A Marine Biologist?
  • Dumaguete Diving Podcast
  • Komodo Diving Podcast
  • Diving The Yonaguni Monument, Japan Podcast
  • Diving Koh Lanta Podcast
  • Moalboal Diving Podcast
  • Diving The Banda Sea Podcast: Part 2
  • Diving The Banda Sea Podcast: Part 1
  • Diving Hawaii Podcast
  • Diving Malapascua Podcast
  • Diving Taiwan Podcast
  • Diving Japan Podcast
  • Diving HTMS Chang And Alhambra Rock Podcast
  • Diving The WW2 Shipwrecks Of Coron Podcast
  • Diving Lembongan Podcast
  • Diving Romblon: the Philippines’ Secret Super Macro Paradise
  • Triton Bay Diving 2020 Podcast
  • Dream Job: Liveaboard Cruise Director Podcast
  • Diving Triton Bay Podcast
  • Diving Tubbataha Reef Podcast
  • Diving Yap Podcast
  • Diving Truk Lagoon Podcast
  • Diving Sogod Bay Podcast
  • Misool Eco Resort Podcast
  • Diving Palau Podcast
  • The Manta Rays Of Myanmar’s Black Rock Podcast
  • Diving Myanmar Podcast
  • Diving Bali Podcast
  • Diving Cenderawasih Bay Podcast
  • Diving Komodo Podcast
  • Diving Raja Ampat Podcast
  • Dive Happy Podcast Home Page

My Recent Dive Trips

  • November 2024: Similan Islands liveaboard, Thailand
  • October 2024: Forgotten Islands and Banda Sea liveaboard, Indonesia
  • August 2024: Komodo and Saleh Bay liveaboard, Indonesia
  • May 2024: Similan Islands liveaboard, Thailand
  • April 2024: Sogod Bay, Philippines
  • February 2024: Similan Islands liveaboard, Thailand
  • January 2024:Gangga Island Resort, Indonesia
  • December 2023: Similan Islands liveaboard, Thailand
  • Mejangan Island, Bali
  • October 2023: Similan Islands liveaboard, Thailand
  • June 2023: Raja Ampat liveaboard, Indonesia
  • April 2023: Maldives liveaboard
  • April 2023: Similan Islands liveaboard, Thailand
  • February 2023: Similan Islands liveaboard, Thailand
  • December 2022: Raja Ampat liveaboard, Indonesia
  • December 2022: Similan Islands liveaboard, Thailand
  • August 2022: Komodo liveaboard, Indonesia
  • June 2022: USAT Liberty shipwreck, Bali, Indonesia
  • April 2022: Stonehenge, Koh Lipe, Thailand
  • March 2022: Manta Rays at Koh Bon, Thailand
  • January 2022: Richelieu Rock liveaboard, Thailand
  • March 2021: HTMS Chang and Alahambra Rock liveaboard, Thailand
  • February 2020: Similan Islands liveaboard, Thailand
  • December 2019: Raja Ampat liveaboard, Indonesia
  • October 2019: Malapascua, Philippines
  • June 2019: Sogod Bay, Philippines
  • April 2019: Tulamben, Bali
  • December 2018: Sogod Bay, Philippines
  • December 2018: Anilao, Philippines
  • October 2018: Moalboal, Philippines
  • October 2018: Malapascua, Philippines
  • July 2018: Tulamben, Bali
  • May 2018: Raja Ampat, Indonesia
  • April 2018: Sogod Bay, Philippines

My Less Recent Dive Trips

  • May 2017: Apo Island and Dumaguete, Philippines
  • April 2017: Tubbataha Reef, Philippines
  • April 2017: Sogod Bay, Philippines
  • March 2017: Triton Bay, Indonesia
  • March 2017: Raja Ampat, Indonesia
  • September 2016: Tulamben, Bali at Alba Dive Resort
  • August 2016: Cenderawasih Bay on Damai 1
  • April 2016: Sogod Bay at Sogod Bay Scuba Resort
  • February 2016: Raja Ampat and Banda Islands on Damai 1
  • April 2015: Anilao at Crystal Dive Resort
  • March 2015: Myanmar and Similan Islands on Thailand Aggressor
  • May 2013: Similan Islands on Thailand Aggressor
  • April 2013: Tubbataha Reef on Discovery Palawan
  • January 2013: Komodo, Indonesia on MSY Damai
  • August 2012: Cenderawasih Bay, Indonesia
  • April 2012: Similan Islands and Southern Thailand liveaboard
  • January 2012: Similan Islands liveaboard, Thailand
  • August 2011: Hanifaru, Maldives
  • June 2011: Tubbataha Liveaboard Hans Christian Andersen
  • April 2011: Similan Islands and Southern Thailand liveaboard
  • April 2011: Carpe Vita Liveaboard, Maldives
  • March 2011: Lembeh Strait, Indonesia
  • December 2010: Menjangan, Bali
  • July 2010: Tofo, Mozambique
  • July 2010: Sardine Run, South Africa
  • May 2010: Sangalaki / Derawan, Tambora
  • March 2010: MV Flying Seahorse, Similan Islands
  • March 2010: MV Orion, Southern Maldives
  • January 2010: Big Blue Explorer, Palau
  • November 2009: MSY Damai, Banda Sea Liveaboard, Indonesia
  • October 2009: MSY Damai, Komodo Liveaboard, Indonesia
  • October 2009: MV Orion, Maldives Liveaboard
  • September 2009: MV Scubanet, Koh Losin, Thailand
  • May 2009: MSY Seahorse, Banda Sea liveaboard, Indonesia
  • March 2009: Sachika Liveaboard, Maldives
  • February 2009: Daytrips, Koh Lanta, Thailand
  • January 2009: MV Jazz, Burma (Myanmar) Liveaboard

Back In The Day Bragging Rights Dive Trips

  • November 2008: Borneo Explorer, Visayas Liveaboard
  • September 2008: S/Y Siren, Komodo Liveaboard
  • August 2008: Ocean Rover, Sulawesi Liveaboard
  • August 2008: NAD Lembeh Resort, Indonesia
  • June 2008: Koh Tao
  • March 2008: Maldives, Bandos Island
  • February 2008: MSY Seahorse, Raja Ampat Liveaboard
  • January 2008: MV Jazz, Burma Liveaboard
  • October 2007: Bali Dive Safari
  • September 2007: Davao, Philippines
  • July 2007: Great White Sharks, Rodney Fox Liveaboard
  • June 2007: Big Blue, Palau Liveaboard
  • May 2007: Whale Sharks at Exmouth, Australia
  • April 2007: Borneo Explorer, Tubbataha Reef Liveaboard
  • December 2006: Komodo Dancer, Komodo Liveaboard

Disclosure: Divehappy.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com and amazon.co.uk).

World Nomads provides travel insurance for travellers in over 100 countries. As an affiliate, we receive a fee when you get a quote from World Nomads using this link. We do not represent World Nomads. This is information only and not a recommendation to buy travel insurance.

© 2005–2025 DiveHappy.com. All Rights Reserved. Privacy Policy